Beach House
Turkey Road, Tramore, Co Waterford, X91 Y521; 051-338270, beachhousetramore.ie
This is likely to be destination restaurant of the year. The evening now starts with drinks in the garden and moves into the redesigned 20-seater space downstairs. It’s a return to the 100-per-cent seafood menu that Jumoke Akintola was serving when she and Peter Hogan ran the Fish Shop restaurant on Queen Street in Dublin, and we couldn’t be happier. The wine list now features more than 200 listings, with a particular focus on Burgundy. Corinna Hardgrave
Éan Bakery & Wine Bar
Druid Lane, Galway; 091-374154, eangalway.com
Expect to fall in love—utterly in love—with Éan. It’s a place for a coffee, lunch and dinner, and if you’re taking the afternoon off, well, there’s a cracking wine list to work through. Christine Walsh’s cooking, which landed a Michelin Bib Gourmand for the restaurant this year, is clever and delicious. Order everything on the menu, especially the squid toast. CH
Fish Shop
76 Benburb Street, Dublin 7, D07 3XPN; 01-5571473, fish-shop.ie
If you were to pop into Fish Shop on your own, say, for a sneaky snifter on a Saturday afternoon, there’s no need to bring a book. The wine list is so beautifully written that sommeliers weep and punters walk out wine geniuses. The fish, of course, is spectacular. Imagine turbot in a golden batter, cooked to order as you sip something beautiful on one of the 15 counter stools at this discretely wonderful restaurant. They now take reservations. CH
Forest Avenue
126 Leeson Street Upper, Dublin 4; 01-6678337, forestavenuerestaurant.ie
If you want to make a snap judgment on a wine bar, check out the grower champagnes. At John and Sandy Wyer’s deli by day and wine bar by night, you’ll find five by the glass, enough to have you saving up your pocket money for a blowout. Small plates of oysters, cured meats and a few cooked dishes make perfect accompaniments. CH
Frank’s
22 Camden Street Lower, Dublin, D02 TW89; 089-2083056, franksdublin.com
Do not be fooled by the casual vibe in this buzzy wine bar, which has small plates back on the menu alongside its impressive list of wines by the glass. Newly installed chef David Bradshaw, who worked at Lyle’s in London among other serious places, is quietly plating up some of the most original food in Dublin. You’ll see his Hegarty’s cheddar crumpet with wild garlic and cabbage on every wine lover’s Insta feed, but do also keep space for the stunning desserts here. The buttermilk ricotta ice cream with rhubarb is sublime. CH
Host
13 Ranelagh, Dublin 6; 01-5612617, hostrestaurant.ie
Is it even possible to visit Host without ordering the pumpkin cappellacci from their short and simple menu? Even if you can resist the pasta, the creamy burrata small plate or the perfectly grilled Hannan’s beef lies in wait, all accompanied by an equally sharp wine list. If the free-range pork chop is on offer, do not pass it up. Chef and owner Niall McDermott and wife Chloe have created the perfect suburban restaurant, now with outdoor terrace for people-watching. Joanne Cronin
The Universal
9 William Street West, Galway; 091-728271, theuniversal.business.site
Sitting on the street outside the Universal in Galway, drinking a bottle of natural Jura Ploussard, eating a brined pork chop in Stonewell cider sauce—or lemon sole on the bone—and watching animated conversations all around you from people who are elated to be there will likely be one of your favourite drinking and dining memories of summer. Thoughtful small plates, natural wines, eclectic interiors and laid-back staff are a hell of a combination. Lisa Cope
This Is It
Main Street, Ennistymon, Co Clare; 065-7072252, thisisitennistymon.com
A summer supper club feels like a natural evolution for Ger O’Donoghue’s Ennistymon cafe, which now has its own bakery and is the go-to venue for its serious selection of organic and biodynamic wines. Roy Hennessy is the chef bringing the buzz to evening dining here. The theme changes fortnightly, and you’re likely to encounter a load of creativity around ramen. CH
Uno Mas
6 Aungier Street, Dublin 2, D02 WN47; 01-4758538, unomas.ie
Gildas and a glass of sherry, followed by squid a la plancha, tortilla and perhaps scallop aguachile are highlights on the menu here, matched with a smart wine list. But it really has become a case of uno más. Diners are now required to order at least three dishes, including a main, so that it’s a full meal experience rather than a glass and a nibble. With so few covers and increased costs, this is their alternative to a fixed-price menu to keep the business ticking over. CH
Volpe Nera
22 Newtown Park, Blackrock, Co Dublin, A94 D780; 01-2788516, volpenera.ie
It is unlikely that the beloved mushroom dumplings with aged soya or the cote de boeuf for two will ever be taken off Barry Sun’s Mediterranean-inspired menu, which nudges on occasion in an Asian direction. Something that is constantly evolving is Sinéad McCarthy’s clever wine list, with a new pairing option and 30 wines by the glass. CH
