Pimientos de Padrón with baby anchovies (€9.50) is not what I expected to be tucking into at a Korean restaurant, although it could well be that they are a popular item in Korea. A research trip is called for, but for now, I just have the input of my much-travelled wingman who has no memory of encountering them on the occasions he visited that country. Blistered and mottled black from the application of a searing heat, they have maintained the perfect balance, delivering a smoky char without collapsing too much from cooking. But what really brings them alive is the savoury crunch of tiny anchovies, peppered like fried insects on top, with smoked almonds and flakes of sea salt.
It is a snack to rival the gilda for supremacy, which could be improved only if one or two of the peppers tipped into the Scoville Scale to elicit the hot fiery shock that 10 per cent of these capsicums are purported to induce. A chilled bottle of Asahi beer (€5.50) is on hand, but it seems that padróns these days are far milder than when I first discovered them in Mallorca many years ago.
They are on the small plates section of the evening menu, which immediately makes me wish there were more than just three of us exploring what’s on offer at Space Jaru in Dublin 8. The double-fried, free-range boneless chicken thighs and beef galbi dumplings will have to wait for a return visit. We try just one other dish from this section, the prawn pajeon (€12.50), a Korean scallion pancake, replete with shredded spring onions, with deliciously frazzled bits jagging out at the edges. It is really good dipped in the jalapeño soy sauce, which adds a bit of heat. The prawns, which sit on top, are the customary Thai imports, so not bringing anything of standout quality, but they have been nicely caramelised, which adds a bit of flavour.
We are somewhat under pressure getting through our starter dishes as everything has landed on the table at once. I had specified that the main courses come later, but somehow this has been lost in translation. It would perhaps be wise to order in two tranches so that you control the pace.
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Main courses are basically two options – Korean barbecue bowls with aubergine, chicken, pork and beef options, which come with a choice of purple or kimchi rice and sauces; and Korean fried chicken, with four choices. So we go for the aubergine (€14.50) and the beef (€15.50), trying the two types of rice and two different sauces, and a classic chicken burger (€12.50).
Thinly sliced beef, rocket, kimchi, bean sprouts, edamame and a jammy egg are loaded on top of the purple sticky rice and a container of the Korean barbecue sauce is perched in the bowl. The idea is to mix it all up so that you get a taste of the different elements and textures in each bite. The vegetarian version is much the same, but with bell pepper and aubergine, and a punchy green chilli sauce which we prefer. As you’d expect, special care has been taken with the rice which is cooked five portions at a time to ensure it is served as fresh as possible. The kimchi rice wins the day.
Our third main course is another substantial dish and we have, of course, ordered the kimcheese fries (€6.50) which are indulgently cheesy, and daikon pickle (€3). There’s more of that daikon pickle on the burger, which is a large hunk of golden, panko-crumbed chicken breast, topped with rocket, tomato and cheese. A dash of spicy heat would be good to kick up the flavours.
There is no dessert menu, not that you’re likely to have much leftover appetite.
Gunmoo Kim says that he and his wife Alice Park want Space Jaru to be a space for Korean food, culture and lifestyle, and they have plans to run cooking, art and Korean language classes. If you want to take a bit of Korea home with you, there is a small pantry area where you can stock up on specialist Korean food products. Spotting Oz Clarke’s Grapes & Wines on a shelf alongside Sandor Katz’s fermentation bible may explain why the carefully chosen wine list features small organic and biodynamic producers. It has me thinking that, as well as being a great spot for lunch or an early dinner, working through the small plates accompanied by an interesting bottle would be just the thing for a relaxed evening of dining.
Dinner for three with two beers and a Coke was €87.80.
The verdict: A top-tier snack and vibrant Korean dishes.
Music: K-pop in the background.
Food provenance: Beef from Ballinalee, Co Longford; pork (not free-range) from Drumavanagh, Co Cavan; free-range chicken and eggs; Thai prawns and Caterway vegetables.
Vegetarian options: Vegan burger, roast edamame with broccolini, Padrón peppers with smoked almonds, and roast rice cake.
Wheelchair access: Accessible with accessible toilet.
