About face

Phyl Clarke meets top Irish make-up artist Ellie Balfe and asks for advice on pulling off this season's scary trends

Phyl Clarkemeets top Irish make-up artist Ellie Balfe and asks for advice on pulling off this season's scary trends

I'm not one to pass up an opportunity to pick a beauty expert's brains. When I heard that Ellie Balfe was in the office to make up our model for the fashion shoot in this issue, I high-tailed it down to the studio to meet her. I asked to talk to her about ways for us mere mortals to wear the new trends, as I watched her expertly apply the final false eyelash to complete the "Twiggy for the 21st Century" look we were going for. I'm watching an artist at work, I thought to myself, what secrets she must have, what techniques to transform the face - would she share them?

With 14 years' experience working in the industry, Ellie has tried a lot of products. Originally trained in film and theatre make-up, she spent five years with the London spacenk store, and then returned to Dublin to train staff in the Nue Blue Eriu make-up boutique. Weddings and fashion shoots were also part of Ellie's brief, and eventually she landed in Brown Thomas as head make-up artist for the Stila brand. It was to be a fortuitus appointment, for it was there she met Ken Boylan, already in demand as a make-up artist himself. The two became firm friends, and more than that, business partners. Realising that women were spending vast amounts of money on inappropriate products, they set up Boylan and Balfe to teach the women of Ireland the art of make-up application, customising products for them and teaching them to make the most of themselves without spending the earth. They now run courses countrywide and can be contacted at 087-7487277.

As this issue is a style and fashion special, I began by asking Ellie about the new trends in beauty, and how to wear them in the real world.

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METALLICS:Can be a frightening trend, as you can end up looking like a robot if you get it wrong. Ellie's advice is to steer clear of frosty, and keep to softer shimmer shadows. Go easy on the fake tan - metallics look more modern on a pale skin, as in iridescent pearly greys. Pout Ice Licks (€20) are a favourite for this look, they bond to skin with no creasing - the shade Bamboo is a silvery grey that is very flattering.

THE PINK LIP:Well it's as simple as this - pink is the new red, but forget about the chalky pale shades, we're talking rosy, we're talking fuchsia, we're talking pink. I love this trend, because you can get instant fashion points very easily, and pink perks you up and makes you look healthy. This look depends on a nude eye, maybe with some eyeliner and mascara. Go easy on blusher. Some shades to try: Nars Schiap (€29), which Ellie tells me was named after the great designer Elsa Schiaparelli, and Ellie would always recommend a visit to , as they will have every shade of pink, so you will be sure to get one to suit.

NEON EYES:  Another scary one, best left to the younger set, I imagine. Key colours are hot pink, lime green and turquoise. Ellie advises just using a veil of colour on the eyelid and keeping the rest of the face nude. For our fashion shoot, as the clothes were bright brights, she kept the eyes palest pink with grey in the socket - and then lots of black liner and mascara. The secret is apparently not to match your make-up to bright coloured clothing or you stray into circus territory.

THE NEW NATURAL:  Is the natural look really a trend, I ask? The new natural is based on perfect skin. Ellie tells me that she will often spend more time on perfecting skin than any other aspect of making up the face. Matte skin can look dry and dull - what we are going for is glowing, highlighted skin - the warm, bronzed look with subtle eye, cheek and lip colours in peachy nudes. Stila eyeshadow in the shade Lowney is a beautiful shimmery pale peach that's very wearable (€19).

So now I had Ellie's take on the new trends, but I was not going to let her go without asking about her own all-time favourite products. Every make-up artist has them, no matter what trends come and go. Her favourite moisturiser is La Roche PoseyHydraphase XL (€22.50), which has an SPF15. It makes the perfect make-up base, and Ellie is a big fan of this product.

Her favourite foundation is no surprise to me. MacFace and Body (€36) is in every pro's kit. Ellie loves it because it looks like skin, and not make-up, and you can't ask for better than that. For evening, she will favour ArmaniHydra Glow (€36), which gives a lovely luminous finish to the skin. Ellie prefers a cream blush for daytime and Convertible (€29) in the shade Peoney gives a healthy flush to the face.

Lancôme'sHypnose (€24.50) wins her vote for the best mascara, and it's back to Stila for a great eye base shimmer - Starlight (€19) - which has a soft sheen and a brightening effect. Ellie's favourite red lipstick is Dubonnet by Mac(€17.50). I smugly told her I had it already. Best lip glosses, she says, are Juicy Tubes by Lancôme(€18.50) and Lip Glaze (€23) by Stila. Ellie is really impressed with the Autograph range from Marks and Spencerfrom just €12, and particularly likes the nude lip colour in the shade Cashmere.

I was just about to ask about bronzers when she put me straight that Poutbronzers (€28) are her pick. They suit a paler complexion and have a peachy tone. Finally I push for a top tip. Pay attention to your eyebrows, advises Ellie - many people take them for granted and don't realise their importance in shaping the face. Elongating the length with a powder is incredibly transforming. I feel I may yet attend one of her courses, and will report back with even more pearls of wisdom.