The root vegetables have been heading towards the kitchen door for the past few weeks. Soon, they will be upon us. Carrots, parsnips, swedes. Turnips as well; all round and gnarly. I have tried to look away. Ignore them. Focus on the few remaining herbs and flowers still growing in the garden.
When the root vegetables take hold, they’ll be here for the long winter ahead. This is particularly true in Aniar, where we only use local and seasonal food. No more fruit, no more lush fennel and tarragon, no more beautiful baby veg.
But there is innovation. Many of our desserts are vegetable-based. Instead of chocolate we have Jerusalem artichoke. Instead of vanilla we have pumpkin. These may seem bizarre correspondences but sometimes limitations inspire you to push yourself forward. Beetroot and rosehip ice-cream anyone? Or parsnip mousse with malt and crispy pumpkins?
Using vegetables for dessert is not a new thing. Take carrot cake for example. We all know that one. But we seem to stop too soon, to not let our imaginations run away. It’s a short step from carrot cake to parsnip ice-cream. Try it.
Root vegetables seem to be perpetually in season in Ireland. It’s what we all grew up on. But there are times of the year that these are at their best. That time is now. Embrace your inner carrot, I say.
We have some lovely winter parsnips. I make a quick salt dough: equal quantities of flour and salt and water to bind. Roll it out and then wrap it around the parsnips. Bake for 45 minutes. Allow to cool, then crack open the dough. You’ll want something tangy with these – a nice organic crème fraiche and some bitter rocket leaves (if you can still find some).
Salt baked root vegetables also pair nicely with red meat. Given there’s still loads of game at the moment, why not try them with some grilled or smoked venison. I feel a warm winter salad taking form.
