It might sound a bit strange, but we recently ordered our dinner from the fabulous Beach House restaurant in Tramore. If you think that’s like bringing coals to Newcastle, you’d be right. But the simple fact is that sometimes I want to be cooked for too.
The whole world seems to be doing food boxes and meal kits and I want to see what it’s all about, so I can figure out how I’m supposed to pivot. Now there’s an easy word with dramatic consequences.
Summer is looming, but things aren’t looking good. The Tannery has no outside space and I don’t think I’d be allowed to put diners on the roof. There’s some figuring out to do yet.
We’re living relatively healthily at the moment. The walking is the focal point of the day. We are eating very little carbs, and no booze during the week. The trouble with that is by Friday I’m like a fella that’s just landed in Ibiza.
This chicken dish is light and bright and fits with this eating plan. The breast is flattened and cooked on a ribbed grill pan. It’s worth the extra effort to do this. I roasted the veg and made a simple lemon and chilli dressing. You could eat this with some mashed potatoes.
A few years ago, I spent a few days in the kitchen of The Walnut Tree in Abergavenny, Wales. The chef there, Shaun Hill, has always been one of my heroes. He has been around even longer than me and remarkably still cooks each service with a vim and vigour that I’m not sure I possess. He radiates intelligence and goodwill. There’s a calmness about him that knows his food is good without genuflecting to the many food fashions he has seen.
These leeks are now a staple in The Tannery. In The Walnut Tree they were served with lemon sole. The brightness of the finished leeks is of paramount importance and the flour gives them a pleasing, moussey texture. They go with practically everything, but equally they are happy to just be themselves, old school and resplendent.
I am not a baker, but this bread needs no skill and it tastes lovely. It’s particularly nice with the leek fondue, but that’s more coincidence rather than design.
Recipe: Grilled chicken with roasted spring vegetables, lemon and chilli
Recipe: Smoked bacon, cheddar and red onion bread
Recipe: A fondue of leeks
