South African wine is developing with its country. Joe Breen meets one of its leading advocates
'I think it's very important that we develop wines that are not copies or clones, that have the footprint of Africa. And they must be seen to be clearly tasting of the South African soil and climate," says Vaughan Johnson, talking about a subject he is passionate about. Passing on the good news about South African wine is his mission as his country's unofficial wine ambassador.
"The launch pad was after 1994, just after the democratic election which brought Nelson Mandela to power," he says, recalling the early days of the country's wine revolution. "Before that, approximately 5 per cent of the wine production of South Africa was exported. Nobody wanted to buy our wines, particularly the Scandinavians and the Irish - and rightly so. Since then we have been welcomed onto the world stage of wine . . .
"A massive replanting of vineyards and improvements in cellar techniques took place. South African winemakers went overseas to learn the latest skills, and as a result we have had a massive improvement in quality."
Commercial over, the dapper Johnson, who was an accountant before being bitten by the wine bug - he owns a wine shop in Cape Town and has two more under franchise in Ireland, in Temple Bar and Dublin 4 - is realistic about his country's developing wine industry. "The world's wine shelves have never been more cluttered, and there has never been a better time for consumers, because the choice is enormous.
"Ireland represents a great opportunity. In Austria all you get is Austrian wines; in Germany, German; in South Africa, largely South African. But in Ireland we are head to head with some of the greatest wine-producing countries in the world."
On a scale of one to 10, where would he place South African wine? "Seven, meaning we have achieved an enormous amount in a short time. We are still desperate to establish a unique characteristic for South African wines.
"The Australians have said they are a Shiraz country, and the New Zealanders have said they are a Sauvignon Blanc country, and they have done exceptionally well. But we have not tied ourselves down to a particular style. I think we have a long way to go to reach our potential."
SOUTH AFRICAN STARS ... Selected by Vaughan Johnson
Steenberg 1682 Brut Sparkling NV, €19.99 A sparkling wine from the slopes of Table Mountain. A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir made like Champagne. Creamy, crisp and very elegant style. Classic structure and long aftertaste. From Vaughan Johnson's Wine Shop; Claudio's, Dublin; Wicklow Wine Company; the Vineyard, Galway.
Springfield Estate Special Cuvee 2004, €15.49 From Robertson, two hours' drive northeast of Cape Town. Intensely aromatic, with gooseberry, grass and quince character. From Wicklow Wine Company; Devine Wines, Dublin; No One Vintage, Dublin.
Vaughan Johnson's Good Everyday Cape Red, €7.99 This is the biggest seller of Vaughan Johnson's range in Ireland. Mainly Cabernet and Merlot, with some Tinta Barocca. Very generous youngberry and blackberry aroma, with a supple, mouth-filling texture. From Vaughan Johnson's; Pettits; selected Next Doors; Vineyard, Galway; Kingdom Food Hall, Tralee.
Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, €27.50 Thelema Mountain Vineyards is an award-winning Stellenbosch Estate, and this is a particularly fine Cabernet; great concentration and firm tannins. The fruit is very accessible and yet worthy of ageing. From Vaughan Johnson's Wine Shop