Not an easy choice, in a rare week like this when just about every one of the bottles listed above could be singled out as the supreme star, depending on the usual variables - your mood, your meal (if any) and the money in your pocket. But Trio Merlot, Conchay Toro, 1996 (outlets above, £8.39-£8.99) is the essence of new-wave, mid-price Chile - a well-made wine with broad appeal, soft and voluptuous at first with a slightly vegetal edge; then delivering a long and surprisingly firm finish. It's a stylish crowd-pleaser.
Posh Spice, if you like.