The gentle pop of champagne corks echoed around Parnell Square in Dublin yesterday as Chapter One restaurant celebrated winning its first Michelin star.
"The star of Michelin has descended upon Parnell Square," declared Ross Lewis, who owns the restaurant with Martin Corbett. He said the restaurant's success was particularly satisfying because its northside location had often been pilloried. "That's what gives me the most pleasure. We proved them wrong."
Chapter One joins an elite club with just three other Dublin restaurants holding Michelin stars in the 2007 edition of the Michelin Guide to Great Britain and Ireland, which will go on sale tomorrow.
Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud in the Merrion Hotel is still the only establishment on this island to have two stars, while L'Ecrivain on Baggot Street and Thornton's in the Fitzwilliam Hotel on Stephen's Green retained their one-star status.
Restaurant Michael Deane in Belfast is the only restaurant in Northern Ireland with a Michelin star. No Michelin stars were removed from restaurants on this island this year.
Only three restaurants have been awarded three stars in the guide. They are the Waterside Inn and the Fat Duck, both in Berkshire, and Gordon Ramsay's Chelsea restaurant.
Nine restaurants in the Republic retained their "Bib Gourmand" status which is given to restaurants with good food at moderate prices.
Aldridge Lodge in Duncannon, Co Wexford, joined the group for the first time this year, while Dublin's Jacob's Ladder and An Leath Phingin in Kenmare lost their awards.
All three restaurants in Northern Ireland retained their Bib Gourmands.
Jacob's Ladder chef/patron Adrian Roche said rising costs were to blame. For the 2007 guide, the dinner menu must be under €40 to be considered in this category.
"We had it [Bib Gourmand] for eight years. We tried to hold on to it, but you can't produce really good quality food in Dublin at that kind of money," he said.
Over at Chapter One, Ross Lewis was keen to say that the star outside the door would make no difference to the customer's experience. "It's business as normal and prices will stay the same."
Prices range from €10 to €18.50 for starters, €30 to €35 for main courses and €11 for desserts. On yesterday's menu was fillet of sole for €34 and loin of rabbit for €30. The restaurant has a staff of 37 including 13 chefs.
Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud first received two Michelin stars 11 years ago but Patrick Guilbaud said it was always a challenge to retain the accolade. "It's the most nervous week of the year for us always. I don't think you can get blase about it or else you will lose it."
L'Ecrivain co-owner Sally Clarke agreed. "Getting a star is wonderful and keeping it is another matter," she said.
Kevin Thornton said he was delighted that Thornton's had retained its Michelin star but had no regrets about losing the second star last year.
"The most important thing for us is the business," he said.
The winning Irish restaurants...
Two stars
Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Merrion Street,Dublin
One star
Chapter One, Parnell Square, Dublin;
L'Écrivain, Lower Baggot Street, Dublin;
Thorntons, Fitzwilliam Hotel, St Stephen's Green, Dublin;
Restaurant Michael Deane, Howard Street, Belfast
Bib Gourmand*
Customs House, Baltimore, Co Cork;
Café Hans, Cashel, Co Tipperary;
The Chart House, Dingle, Co Kerry;
Bang Café, Merrion Row, Dublin;
La Maison des Gourmets, Castle Market, Dublin
Aldridge Lodge, Duncannon, Co Wexford
Good Things Café, Durrus, Co Cork
The Lime Tree, Kenmare, Co Kerry
Casino House, Kilbrittain, Co Cork
Fishy Fishy Café, Kinsale, Co Cork
Cayenne, Shaftesbury Square, Belfast
Deane's Brasserie, Howard Street, Belfast
Fontana, Holywood, Co Down
* Awarded to restaurants with good food at moderate prices
Source: Michelin Guide to Great Britain and Ireland 2007
