To describe Bradley's of Cork as an institution would be something of an understatement. The family business has been an ever-present on North Main Street in the city centre since 1850.
But while it once used to dish out milk to the locals, these days it’s more likely to be selling Merlot to a customer.
Bradley's started out as a dairy store and family lore has it that they were the first to pasteurise milk in the country. The store was also famous on account of its homemade ice-cream, which was based on a recipe brought back from Italy by the current owner's grandfather.
The business later operated as a supermarket and, more recently, as a specialist off-licence and food store selling wines, more than 500 craft beers, a wide choice of Irish whiskies and locally produced artisan foods.
Shortlisted in The Irish Times' specialist shop category in the recent Best Shops 2014 awards and winner of a McKennas' Guides plaque for the last three years in succession, it is now run by Michael Creedon, son of Mary Bradley and great-grandson of the businesses' founder Michael Bradley.
McKennas’ Guides describes Bradley’s as the “bees’ knees” and few Corkonians would disagree.
“It’s the sort of place that you dream about, a shop that has everything you need and want, and nothing more,” the guide says about the store.
As Michael explains, it’s been quite the journey for the family as it has sought to adapt to changing shopping patterns over the years.
“In the early days, the farmers used to deliver churns of milk for us to the church a few steps up the street. All the old ladies of the city used to come into our dairy for quarts of cream because it was considered good for their hearts,” he said.
Popular
“Back then, this part of the city was more like a village. It was only natural that over time we began to sell more food items and eventually became a supermarket before those were commonplace. We were popular with visitors from as far away as Macroom and west Cork.
“At Christmas we’d be so busy that we’d have to have a fella on the door because there would be so many people coming here to do their shopping.”
That all changed as bigger players began to dominate the shopping scene in Cork. When the pub next door to the shop came up for sale the family bought it and turned it into an off-licence.
“We just had to evolve because we found ourselves in a difficult situation when shopping patterns changed and people began going to shopping centres on the outskirts of town. We were in the middle of the city so [we] had to specialise or go out of business,” he said.
“We’ve made ourselves a destination shop. People won’t necessarily come to us every week but when they want something special, we’ll be their first port of call.
“We’ll have plenty of people popping in and telling us that they always come in to us at Christmas time, for example. It’s tempting to let them know we’re open for the other 51 weeks of the week as well, but we appreciate the custom and it’s better for them to only come then, than not at all.”
Michael joined the family business 20 years ago when his uncle began to find it hard going. His focus and passion on joining was centred on wine. Over the years he has built up an impressive collection. He has also done his bit to help lead the renaissance in craft beer and Irish whiskies.
“Craft beer is obviously huge right now but, going back through my invoices recently, I realised that we’d started selling them 15 years ago so while its relatively new to the country, we’ve been offering it for quite some time.
Even though supermarkets are also beginning to offer craft beers, Michael believes that they don’t have the specialist knowledge needed to seek out and sell unusual ones.
He says it is this kind of expertise that will help the shop survive.
Compete
“We’re not interested in selling slabs of beer at below cost and wouldn’t be able to compete with the multiples on this anyway so why bother?”
Michael says that while the business was often treated like one of the relatives when he was younger, he drifted into being part of it after working in a bank for a few years. And while he’d like to see his children come on board, there won’t be pressure put on them to do so.
“If it’s something they want to do then it’s there for them, but it’s their decision. If they ask for my advice, I’d tell them that it’s a tough gig. It’s not easy money and you have to put in the hours and keep one step ahead, but it’s very rewarding nonetheless,” he said.