“I have been living in Madrid for five years now, but time has flown,” says Lauren McNicholl, a Ballymena native who is possibly the only Irish woman tailor in Spain.
She works with Jose Alonso Romero, one of the country’s most acclaimed master tailors, whose company is known for its Teba jacket originally designed for King Alfonso XIII in the 1930s.
“Spaniards dress casually because of the climate,” she says, adding that Spanish tailoring style combines English structure with softer Italian construction. She came initially to study full time from Savile Row in London and now tailors three-piece suits, trousers and sports jackets, details of which she often posts on Instagram.
She lives in an apartment in Prosperidad, locally known as “La Prospe”. It was previously a small farming community outside the capital city, but is now an urban hotspot and thriving residential neighbourhood.
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Ms McNicholl shares it with Spaniards from other parts of the country and likes it as it enables her to immerse herself more fully in wider Spanish culture. She walks to work, which is located in the upmarket neighbourhood of Salamanca. “It takes half an hour and allows me to take in the city”, which is in keeping with Madrid people’s love of being outside no matter what the weather.
People are sociable and welcoming. “If you make an effort to speak the language, they will encourage you to keep going and they love to chat and talk so it is very similar to Irish culture,” she says. “Before meeting for lunch, for example, they like to have an aperitivo, a small drink and snack. Even if friends have other plans, they’ll stop to have a quick catch up on a terrace and then head on. It is really relaxed”.
Weekends tend to be family-oriented. “On Sundays you always see families going out together for a meal and to walk in places like the Retiro Park to meet friends – and it’s very much the more the merrier.”
The hub of Madrid people’s outdoor life, El Retiro is one of the biggest parks right in the city centre and has lovely walks and buildings that date back to the 16th century.
On Sundays, Ms McNicholl occasionally heads to the El Rastro market in the La Latina neighbourhood. “I love discovering new places and will often choose a random metro station and wander through the neighbourhood to find gems off the beaten track”.
For shopping, she heads to the Goya neighbourhood and she likes El Corte Inglés, the big department store.
Cost of living is less expensive than home, so the prices of renting and eating out are cheaper
Her favourite places to eat include Casa Julio, known for its croquettes. “A small bar with home-made traditional food and with a fantastic ambience, so it is a lovely environment. You can try the tapas and then move on somewhere else. The Spanish are proud of their food and their specialities, and Madrid celebrates its traditions while also incorporating modern influences, so it is a great mix.”
Madrid is a city that feels local to Ms McNicholl, where people have grown up and remain. “There are lots of museums and exhibitions and there is so much to do here especially in the summer when there are so many festivals and open-air cinemas in the Plaza España. Cost of living is less expensive than home, so the prices of renting and eating out are cheaper; so there is a good work/life balance,” she says.
“Public transport is terrific and a lot cheaper – you can take a train from Madrid and be in Valencia, Barcelona or Alicante in less than two hours.”
Ms McNicholl loves showing visitors from home her life there, the different culture, food and other aspects of the city. “I do miss friends and family back home, but with regular flights it is easy to visit home, being only two hours away. Here my work is really coming into its own and customers will now come back and ask for something special, for suggestions and for advice on certain fabrics.”
Are there any downsides to living in Madrid?
“Spanish timing,” she says. “When the Spanish arrange to meet, it is always later than discussed. I once arrived on time to a friend’s house for dinner and no one, including the host, was there. Nobody could understand why I showed up at the agreed time – that was an introduction into another aspect of the culture.”
