What is Irish food? This is a question that has been debated for decades among Ireland’s culinary elite and the public alike. Many will laugh it off as irrelevant, some will adamantly stand by the traditional narrative of boxty, colcannon and Irish stew. Chefs will talk about produce, historians will reference the influence of agriculture and invaders. Tourists generally look towards Guinness, oysters and stew.
I’m of the firm belief that culture and food are interlinked. When I travel abroad, I like to experience the culture of a country through its food. Most of the time, I’m after the traditional recipes, steeped in meaning and taste. I’m talking about pastéis de nata in Lisbon, risotto in Milan, pad thai on the streets of Bangkok and the best ramen of my life down a rainy backstreet in the Ginza area of Tokyo. I’m also partial to a fancier restaurant that can take traditional ingredients and recipes and create some theatre around it. What better way to experience culture than by eating it?
So where does that leave Ireland? What do our guests learn about us as people through our food? In my opinion, one of the best cultural experiences we offer is through our food. Park the economic debate for a second, our food scene tells the story of Ireland in 2024. You have a wealth of really good produce being created by family-led companies steeped in history and tradition. This produce is being utilised by people brimming with entrepreneurship, creativity, talent, work ethic and confidence.
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The style of food reflects the colourful tapestry of our society, from fantastic bakeries run by young couples to authentic restaurants run by first- and second-generation families from China, Japan, India and so on. There are places using ingredients sourced within a tiny radius, and a two-Michelin-starred restaurant adding Turkish culture to west Cork ingredients. We have a coffee shop partnered with Together Academy to engage and employ people with intellectual disabilities, with queues down the street.
World-class chocolatiers have popped up across the country adding Irish culture and stories to bonbons. One such chocolatier, Gráinne Mullins, was listed on the Forbes 30 under 30 list, her story has gone global. We have award-winning books showcasing Filipino, Mexican and Spanish recipes and stories by people who have made our island their home.
We have a young chef in Cork, Aishling Moore, winning a Michelin Bib Gourmand at 25 years of age, and she only uses seafood from day boats and wastes nothing. For me, this is Irish food. Expressing our culture across all levels, showcasing personality, produce and the people who live here, from every background.
For this week’s recipes I have taken inspiration from a series of dinners I have organised with the Dead Rabbit pub in New York. We titled the series Tradition meets Tomorrow, to challenge the perception of Irish food Stateside.
[ Sláinte: Four wine and beer pairings to go with your Irish stew or roastOpens in new window ]
First up is a traditional Dingle Pie, updated by adding a jazzy mint sauce and cooking them in cupcake moulds, but the flavour is true to the original. Traditionally, these were filled with slow-cooked mutton, encased in shortcrust pastry and served in a soup bowl with a lamb and barley broth.
They are credited to Mary Ellen Begley. She served them from a small window at the bottom of Main Street in Dingle (between the Dingle and An Droichead pubs). They cost six pence in old money and were only served on Saturday evenings or on a Fair Day, when sheep would be run through the town. My version uses lamb shoulder, with capers and anchovies to power up the mint sauce.
The second recipe is a very traditional Irish stew, brought into the 21st century by the slow cooker. I’ve used shanks and added a dash of white wine for acidity (don’t @ me!). This recipe is aggressively debated around the country. My version is hassle-free, delicious and cheap to make.
There you have it, tradition meets tomorrow. Irish food is for everyone.
