Chuck out the chilli, and enjoy other spices, writes Hugo Arnold.
For many, Indian food is too spicy. The chilli heat of certain dishes puts off those of us who love wine, or simply don't enjoy the sensation of our head lifting off, or sweat trickling down our backs as we knock back a pint of lager and a vindaloo or three. It is chilli that is largely to blame for this sensation, and it has a tendency to knock other spices to one side at the same time.
My favourite spice, cumin, is often found in non-Indian dishes. A salsa with avocado and tomato can be laced with cumin and black mustard seeds. It can be lightly toasted and stirred into yoghurt as a quick dressing for grilled fish or chicken. Cumin has its medicinal uses. It is considered one of the cooling spices, along with ingredients such as coriander, onion and coconut. Turmeric, like ginger (they both belong to the same family) is a decongestant, and has been used for centuries as a way of dealing with cuts, acting as a coagulant as well as an antiseptic and disinfectant.
The long-term effects of eating spices may be hard to appreciate for those of us who tend to use them infrequently, but studies in the US suggest that turmeric in particular might help enhance the activity of an enzyme that could prevent or slow the progression of neuro-degenerative disease. India, the highest consumer of turmeric, has one of the world's lowest rates of Alzheimer's disease.
Today's recipes come from the excellent Indian Essence by Atul Kochhar (published by Quadrille, £18.99 in UK). Kochhar was chef at Tamarind in London, where he became one of only two chefs in the world to win a Michelin star for Indian food, and last year opened his own restaurant, Benares, in the same town.
This book is full of modern interpretations of some of the classics, along with Atul's own creations. What marks his cooking out is his focus on ingredients, along with judicious use of spicing. The recipes are identified by region, from the spicy vegetable wraps of Calcutta, to pan-fried potato cakes from Lucknow. These are laced with cumin, ginger, chilli and coriander. Stuffed aubergine steaks from Gujarat and the sweet and sour fish curry from Assam are a real delight.