WINE: Why do some people collect wine in their own cellar? Joe Breen finds out
Like many people who love wine, David Ward enjoys nothing more than to pass time with friends over a decent bottle. There is one large difference. Ward's idea of a nice bottle can, for a very special occasion, run to the esteemed Château Latour. But then, as the owner of Mothercare's 11 stores in the Republic, he has prospered in recent years, and prosperity has enabled him to indulge his passion for wine.
And a passion it is. Although Ward, who was born in Scotland, speaks softly, his enthusiasm is clear as he tells the story of how he came to assemble his cellar. Invariably, each chapter involves a small group of like-minded friends and the journeys they have made, the vineyards they have visited, the meals they have eaten and the bottles they have drunk.
Ward keeps his wine in a purpose-built cellar at his home in north Co Wicklow, a meticulously revamped farmhouse with fine views over the Irish Sea. The space is not air-conditioned, but he believes the building's thick walls keep it at a reasonably constant temperature, although a thermometer stands guard just in case. He worries a little about the light that comes through the cellar's glass doors, but he has made the most of the available space, with 15 spring-loaded drawers to hold cases and neat wooden pigeonholes on either side of the drawers for individual bottles.
At the moment it is home to about 40 cases of wine, although there are many orphans among the bottles and, he says, lots of room for more cases. The cellar includes a couple of bottles of Grand Vin de Château Latour, the legendary Bordeaux first growth, which he bought one memorable night at a restaurant in Burgundy; an open case of Château Lynch-Bages, a solitary bottle of Château Cheval Blanc; and multiple cases of Château Palmer, Château Pichon Longueville, Château Carbonnieux, Château Léoville Barton, Château Phélan-Ségur and other impressive chateaux from solid vintages, including a case of the acclaimed Pomerol Château Lafleur.
The backbone of Ward's collection, and the heart of his interest in wine, is Bordeaux. There are nods to Burgundy; a flirtation with Leeuwin Estate's remarkable Art Series Chardonnay, from Australia; and some Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, from New Zealand. There are, however, no Americans, Italians, Spanish or South Africans (apart from one bottle of Pinotage, the wine served at his wedding). There is some vintage port, some excellent Louis Roederer champagne, a couple of cases of wine for everyday drinking and some minor-chateaux wines he bought during his travels to Bordeaux. He also has some fine Portuguese wine, which is not surprising, as he also has a house there. (It is clear, however, that Portuguese wine has some way to go before he is convinced of its value.)
He makes his regular visits to Bordeaux with a good friend - also an oenophile - and they are joined by a French négociant, or wine trader, with whom they have become friends over the years. The French connection gets them into many leading chateaux, and this is how he sources many of his wines. He does not buy en primeur - that is to say, before the wine has been bottled - preferring to buy on the open market or whenever an opportunity comes up.
He admits that his hobby is not cheap - it can cost thousands of euro a year - but he clearly relishes the experience, from visiting chateaux and talking to winemakers to bringing wine home and sharing it with family and friends. He also loves spotting a bargain.
Although he accepts that having more money than most makes creating a cellar such as his a lot easier, he has the enthusiasm of a true oenophile. This is not an investment to make money; it is an investment in the unbounded pleasures of fine wine.
HOW TO START A WINE CELLAR
You don't need state-of-the-art storage and other mod cons to begin a cellar. Some people use wardrobes; others use the space under the stairs. Try to find somewhere that is reasonably dark and consistently cool. Don't be afraid of starting small. You can build up your collection with a case here and a half-case there, supplemented by a nice bottle or two that you spot on special offer. If you are laying a wine down, make sure it is one that will develop in the bottle. And even though good wine can need at least a decade to mature, don't leave it too long. David Ward tells the story of a very expensive bottle going past its prime - or he thought it had, at least, although the experts he was sharing it with thought it was wonderful. Building up a cellar prompts you to learn more about wine, but beware: having a good bottle in the house can prove an irresistible temptation if you have one of those days.
FOUR TO LAY DOWN
Michael Anderson of Wicklow Wine Company (0404-66767) has selected some €20 bottles that might suit someone starting to build a cellar. Wicklow Wine Company does not deal in en primeur wines, but it does offer a pre-release service; customers can buy a case of wine at a discount for delivery within months. The cost includes carriage and duty.
Les Chemins d'Orient, Cuvée Oxiane, Pécharment 2001, 12.5%, €9.95 Michael Anderson says this very impressive Merlot-dominated wine, from a small area in Bergerac, will be good for up to 10 years. Lovely dark fruit and flavours of bitter chocolate with plenty of staying power. Needs to breathe, but very attractive now.
Domaine d'Aupilhac, Côteaux de Languedoc, Montpeyroux 2002, 13.5%, €17.75 This celebrated earthy blend of five grapes - Syrah, Carignan, Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre - has real punch and elegance and loads of heady blackberry fruit. This should last for up to 10 years, developing all the time.
Niepoort, Douro, Vertente 2001, 13.5%, €20.95 Dirk Niepoort, a Portuguese of Dutch origin, heads a house better known for its ports, but this bruiser, with dense cherry notes, offers something very different. A tough customer that needs a little softening up.
Georg Breuer, Rheingau, Terra Montosa 2002, 12%, €21.60 This is a serious German Riesling from a serious producer. Rich and complex, with a delicious mineral elegance, this wine should develop well over six to 12 years.