Paul Flynn: Ask not how you can save your bacon – ask how your bacon can save you

It’s such a prominent part of our own food culture that it is almost part of me

Family-style cassoulet. Photographs: Harry Weir
Family-style cassoulet. Photographs: Harry Weir

There are some ingredients that I just can’t help myself using on a very frequent basis. This week, I’m featuring one of them – smoked bacon lardons. I naturally gravitate towards bacon, it’s such a prominent part of our own food culture that it is almost part of me. I cannot imagine cooking without it. I was elated some years ago when I first spotted those nifty little packets of lardons on the shelves. No more slicing rashers, one less thing to wash up. It’s the little things.

A traditional cassoulet is something I adore. A delicious beany confection packed with duck confit, pork, Toulouse sausage and a bubbling breadcrumb crust, eaten with plenty of Dijon mustard and red wine to wash it down, is French country cooking at its best. My wife discourages any engagement as there are windy consequences, but that doesn’t stop me. In this recipe, I’m using shop-bought confit duck, white pudding and ordinary breakfast sausages to make it handy.

This hot Caesar salad is perfect for a cold day, and ranch dressing adds a new dimension that lifts everything. You can leave the skins on the potatoes if you like. The ranch dressing has quite a few permutations. It’s delicious with the addition of spring onions and dill, but perfectly nice without them.

I was a bit worried that this soup was too simple, but it is Ireland in a pot. I was in the mood for something light and soothing on a cold day. Let the vegetables slowly cook before you add the stock. This will ensure that every bit of sweetness and character is accentuated and it becomes more than the sum of its parts.

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If you want to make it more luxurious, I’ve included an optional chive and horseradish cream. It will float over the broth like a decadent cloud. Either way, it’s the essence of simplicity. Use a mixture of your favourite root vegetables so it becomes your own. I bought an assorted veg mix from a supermarket, a brilliant idea with no waste. The barley will give it substance and soak up the smoky flavours of the bacon. All hail the bacon.

Recipe: Family-style cassoulet

Family-style cassoulet. Photographs: Harry Weir
Family-style cassoulet. Photographs: Harry Weir

Recipe: Hot potato and bacon salad with ranch dressing

Hot potato and bacon salad with ranch dressing
Hot potato and bacon salad with ranch dressing

Recipe: Winter soup with horseradish cream

Winter soup with horseradish cream
Winter soup with horseradish cream