The last family holiday we took abroad was in Italy, in summer 2019, which as we all know, feels like a century ago. After landing in Naples, battling our way through the streets to find our Airbnb, we were just about in time to make lunch, so bailed across the street to the nearest trattoria, which of course, served pizza. Yes, I know, pizza in Naples, its spiritual home. It was near impossible to order anything else for the rest of the time we were there. It was that good.
Unlike the Romano, which has a thin, crusty base, the Neapolitan, which is cooked more quickly, is softer and has a thicker, raised crust. This style seems to be getting all the love these days, bolstered to a huge degree by Pi, which opened in Georges Street in Dublin, in 2018 and was described by The Irish Times at the time as the best pizza restaurant in Dublin.
Reggie White, the chef behind the pizza there, was king of the dough wars. He has since moved on, and is now heading up the kitchen at John and Sandy Wyer's recently opened Little Forest restaurant in Blackrock, Co Dublin. It's a two-chef operation, and Shane Windrim, who had worked with him in Pi, is the other member of the kitchen team.
White has changed his style slightly from his Pi days. He now uses a 48-hour fermented, leavened dough for his pizza base, made with a sourdough starter he got from his mate Shane Palmer of Scéal Bakery. He trialled more than 30 different variables.
Searing heat
As we drive home with our order, with four click and collect pizzas piled up in cardboard boxes on my lap, I know that I am duty bound to eat at least one slice while the pizza is at its just-out-of-the oven best. The nduja and buffalo (€16) is the first pizza to hand. The base is blistered from the searing heat of the wood burning oven, with the black spots that pizza nerds call “leoparding” (this is a good thing, it adds to the flavour); and the dough, which manages to be pillowy and chewy at the same time, is not too thick, but thankfully manages to support the toppings. The spicy hit of chilli from the nduja melds with the buffalo mozzarella, and the crushed tomato is sweet, yet has a refreshing touch of acidity.
I am once again taken by the flavour of the tomatoes when I try the marinara (€12). This is a pizza that has nowhere to go, it is all about the quality of the dough, the cooking, and the few ingredients on top. A few laser thin slivers of garlic, some fresh basil, oregano, and extra virgin olive oil, support the tomatoes, which I later discover are from Sicily, and double the price of any that White has used before.
The roast cauliflower pizza (€16) is what is known as a bianca, there is no tomato on it, so the delightful gooey mess that is Taleggio spreads across the base with some Grana Padano. Nutty roast cauliflower, speckled with brown butter, works surprisingly well, and there are unexpected bursts of sweetness from a few small pieces of grape.
Our fourth pizza, the salsiccia picante (€16), is dutifully piquant. There are kicks of heat from thin slices of the cured sausage and a sour and spicy kick from pickled jalapeños, against a background of smoky scamorza.
The only thing we are lacking, as we devour our pizzas, is a dip for the crusts. There is now a choice of two dips included on the menu (I’m not the only one to ask), along with some antipasti options including olives, burrata and coppa.
For now, Little Forest is operating as a takeaway, with just a handful of seriously good pizzas. As our world improves, it will open as a restaurant, with pasta and a number of other dishes on the menu. This, most definitely, is something to look forward to.
Four 12-inch pizzas were €60
Where does it come from: Little Forest, 57 Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin, A94 A2Y0. Littleforest.ie
The Verdict: 9/10 – this is pizza I'll dream about
Difficulty factor: No work required, just try to eat them as soon as possible
Food provenance: Top quality Irish and Italian produce
Vegetarian options: Two vegetarian pizzas, one of which is vegan
Delivery: Click and collect at Little Forest, Tuesday to Saturday
Three to try
Back to Dine x Aniar
Dublin 2. Click and collect at San Lorenzo, South Great George's Street, Friday and Saturday, backtodine.com
JP McMahon of Aniar will feature in the second of Temple Garner's Back To Dine collaboration series. Once again, it's €99.95 for a seven-course menu and dishes will include rabbit, cider and juniper rillette with pickled Lissadell cockles, Castletownbere crab, Kilkeel king scallop, a choice of main courses and pavlova with forced rhubarb for dessert.
Berman & Wallace
Dublin 4. Click and collect, plus deliveries in Dublin, Saturday 13th and Sunday 14th February, bermanandwallace.ie
Taking things to an even more decadent level is this seven-course Valentine's dinner for two with cocktails, for €180. Mojitos are followed by smoked oyster mousse and mini homemade organic breads; crab brûlée with picked apple; a palate cleanser; fillet steak au poivre; chocolate fondant; a French cheese board and petit fours.
The Celtic Ross
Roscarbery, Co Cork. Order and collect, Saturday 13th and Sunday 14th February, celticrosshotel.com
As a special for Valentine's day, this €60 meal kit for two includes a rhubarb and prosecco mimosa to start the evening with a sparkle, a mezze style platter with flat breads, a choice of West Cork featherblade or locally caught plaice for main course, and dessert. To order, call 023-8848722.
