Baffled by data overload for decent energy retrofit

Your property queries answered

Solar panels used in domestic dwellings to heat water do require very good levels of sunlight. Photovoltaic panels will generate your own electricity, but can be expensive to install
Solar panels used in domestic dwellings to heat water do require very good levels of sunlight. Photovoltaic panels will generate your own electricity, but can be expensive to install

Q We have a 1950s era three-bed semi-detached house in Bray, Co Wicklow, with raised timber floors at ground level. The house has not undergone much renovation in the last number of years and suffers from poor double glazing, damp and mould in the kitchen and bathroom as well as cold drafts.

We would like to do a decent energy retrofit, and are baffled by the amount of technical information out there about heat sources, draft exclusion, air tightness versus ventilation, cold bridges, external versus internal insulation, under-floor insulation, solar thermal panels, solar photovoltaic panels, triple glazed windows and doors, etc. Not to mention what is required for building regulations, BER, Enerphit or near-zero energy buildings.

Who should we get to pilot us through all the choices, and to help us retain a reliable and expert builder?

We have spoken to a couple of architects, but it seems their fees would be way too high for a retrofit that doesn’t involve a major redesign of the house.

READ MORE

We don’t have a fortune to spend on it, so we need to spend every euro wisely.

A Drafts from ground floor voids can be addressed by installing insulation retained between floor joists. The current void should have cross ventilation and should be maintained. Triple glazing is becoming very popular today, but good quality modern double glazed windows can be as effective. Exterior doors may have warped and the addition of draft excluders may help, otherwise replacement is necessary.

The external wall construction should be determined before you decide on insulation. External insulation is very effective as it keeps the structure warm and addresses cold bridging. The impact of additional thickness on the outside will need consideration at ground, eaves, openings and at the boundary with your neighbour’s walls.

Internal insulated dry lining is an option but it will take up space inside. Checks should be carried out to ascertain where the “dew point” is to rule out interstitial condensation within the structure.

Attic insulation with 300mm thick mineral wool is common practice. It is important to maintain cross-flow of air to dissipate condensation, especially if the under-slates have a bitumen felt membrane. Eaves ventilation and/or a series of slate vents can be installed if venting doesn’t exist. Background ventilation via wall vents or window trickle vents, along with extractor fans in kitchens/bathrooms, will remove moist laden air. If you use gas central heating, this can be supplemented with a standalone stove as an economical supplement.

Solar panels used in domestic dwellings to heat water do require very good levels of sunlight. Photovoltaic panels will generate your own electricity, but can be expensive to install. The aforementioned are typical approaches to upgrading the building fabric to modern standards and will certainly improve the dwelling’s BER rating.

EnerPHit is a Passivhaus standard introduced as a measure to upgrade dwellings to passive house standards. Certification is issued where Passivhaus components are used largely with external wall insulation.

You can address the work in stages to suit your pocket, but there is a lot to consider and more than I can address here. Professional help, from your local chartered building surveyor, will save you money in the long run and help you achieve your goal.

James Drew is a Chartered Building Surveyor and a member of the Society of Chartered Surveyors Ireland (SCSI)

Whose ownership?

Q I inherited a parcel of land and I am in the process of cleaning it up as it has grown wild over the past number of years. I have begun to cut down some dead trees and trim back some hedges on the boundaries but my neighbour is insisting that this hedgerow belongs to him and this has led to some disagreement. The hedge line follows a deep ditch with the trees and hedging growing on the bank of earth which is closest to my boundary. Where do I stand and who has ownership of this natural boundary?

A The hedge/ditch/bank boundary issue has been the subject of discussion since it first appeared as a division of land.

The presumption is that the ditch/drain was dug on his/her own side of the legal boundary by one landowner who then created the bank on his/her own side of the ditch/drain using the excavated soil, and subsequently planted a hedge along the top of the bank. Accordingly, the ditch, bank and hedge are in the ownership of this landowner as the legal boundary remains along the edge of the ditch/drain on the opposite side from the bank.

This presumption may not hold, however, if deed maps, or boundary agreements associated with subsequent land transactions determine the legal boundary to be different. To determine the legal boundary you will need to obtain as much documentation as possible, including your deed which should contain a map and/or a boundary description.

The original title deed to the estate of which your property was a part, may also prove significant. If the title to your property is registered in the Land Registry, you could apply to it (using Land Registry Form 96) for a copy of the Instrument which includes documents submitted with the application for the registration. The fee is €40. The Instrument may contain a copy of the original deed and other relevant information. The Instrument Number is on the Land Registry Folio. You should note however that the registry map and title plan associated with the Folio have a “non-conclusive” boundary.

It may also be significant if the townland boundary is at this location, as townland boundaries are frequently indicated as undefined lines running 1.83 metres (6 feet) from the root of hedge, ie on the ditch/drain side.

At such locations the original title boundaries generally follow townland boundaries and are retained accordingly in subsequent land transactions.

The information I have outlined appears to be in your favour. You should however consult a solicitor and a chartered geomatics surveyor to interpret boundary documentation.

You should also try to maintain communication with your neighbour and avoid costly litigation and its unpredictable outcome.

Patrick Shine is a chartered geomatics surveyor, a chartered civil engineer and a member of SCSI scsi.ie