A historic house originally built for the La Touche banking family was the perfect backdrop to the unveiling of Richard Lewis's new collection, writes Deirdre McQuillan
"Ribbed wool resembling grosgrain from the 1950s; superfine silk jersey in jewel colours - the 1930s; and long fur-like knitted throws worn with opera coats. He always understood what I needed." These were the words of Richard Lewis in the programme notes describing the fabrics in his current collection, selected on buying trips to Paris and London by his partner Jim Greeley before his untimely death last December.
Greeley had also been responsible for choosing No 10 Ormond Quay, a historic house originally built for the La Touche banking family, as the elegant venue for the recent catwalk show. It was in keeping with his flair for finding interesting Dublin locations such as the Abbey Theatre, Christchurch crypt and the Freemasons' Hall for these shows every season.
The event, which drew a huge turnout, was an emotional occasion for all concerned, particularly the designer's friends, including former model Sharon Bacon and stylist Catherine Condell who rallied around to make it such a success. The clothes made their own statement of Lewis's enduring appeal, and the candlelit rooms provided the perfect backdrop for their quiet simplicity. Modelled by some size 14 models, and Lorna Britton, who is in her sixties, it was Lewis's signature mix of textured daywear and slinky jersey evening gowns. Colours included brick, violet and peacock blue along with black, navy and scarlet. "Anything red or burnt orange is always best for the Irish complexion," said the designer.
A typical ensemble was a cuffed white shirt of impeccable cut, navy palazzos and a quilted obi belt, a familiar accessory repeated season after season.
New this time were skinny hand-knitted cabled sweaters worn with full silk skirts in bright red or navy for chic evening wear, and long knitted throws that looked just like fur, that were the work of a knitting group in Finglas, discovered at the Knitting & Stitching show. The reliable little black dresses had high waists with draped or sweetheart necklines and were worn with red shoes and vintage rhinestone jewellery loaned by Peter O'Brien. "I wanted to create a look of simplicity and old-world style couture," said Lewis.
In a year that has seen the end of a famous 30-year partnership, but also marks 30 successful years in business in South Frederick Street in Dublin 2, the show was a triumph over tragedy.