Prints charming: the secret of Orla Kiely’s success

Ahead of her appearance at the Lily Lolly Craft Fest in Sligo, the Dubliner talks about her design hero, the state of Irish craft and the importance of marrying an accountant

Orla Kiely: ‘It is always exciting to see my designs on someone’
Orla Kiely: ‘It is always exciting to see my designs on someone’

What are you working on at the moment? 

“My presentation of Resort 2015 [fashion show] in New York city. We will host a breakfast on top of the Nomad Hotel and have the models wearing our collection against the New York skyline. I really hope it doesn’t rain!”

What was the inspiration for your early iconic patterns?

An Orla Kiely bag at London Fashion Week this year. Photograph: Tristan Fewings/Getty Images
An Orla Kiely bag at London Fashion Week this year. Photograph: Tristan Fewings/Getty Images
‘The stem print [above] has been very good to us and is recognised around the world’
‘The stem print [above] has been very good to us and is recognised around the world’

“I am constantly inspired my nature: flowers, leaves and animals, simplified into stylised motifs that can be put into print repeats is a great joy for me. Colour is very important. I often find myself drawn to the greens, greys and browns of the Irish landscape, set against bursts of vibrant orange and yellows.”

When you were little, what did you want to be when you grew up?

“I was interested, like many little girls, in fashion and knew I wanted to be a designer. The first thing I ever designed was an outfit for my little sister, when she was seven and I was 12. It was a burnt orange jumbo cord bomber jacket and A-line miniskirt. I even designed a little sling shoulder bag: a sign of things to come.”

What did you learn from your parents?

“Always finish what you started. And be honest.”

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Does it still give you a buzz to see people wearing your work?

“Yes, it is always exciting to see my designs on someone. Knowing that they love it too is very rewarding.”

Best advice you were ever given?

“In the early days, after designing a range of hats for Liberties, my father said, ‘Every women has a bag; not every women has a hat’. He was right.

Best advice for start-ups?

“Believe in yourself and follow your instincts. When you start out as a designer, you tend to design to please other people, but learning to believe in your own taste is so important. Also: marry an accountant.”

What do you think of the craft scene in Ireland?

“There is a great energy in Ireland. The craft scene is going from strength to strength.”

Are you house-proud?

“Of course. I enjoyed designing the interior of our house and I love to be surrounded with things that make me happy. I have worked rooms around my favourite pieces. If you find something you love, the colour or texture of that piece can set the scheme. Yellow flows throughout our house in a very organic way; I didn’t plan it.”

Favourite room in your London home and why?

“The kitchen: it is open plan with the dining room and then drops down to a sunken ‘lounge’ area and then out the French doors to the garden patio. You can see all the way through.”

You work with your husband. What are the challenges and perks of that working relationship?

“He is different to me in that he brings the business side to my creative side. We try not to talk about work at home. He is very supportive of my designs and finds clever ways to bring them to the market.”

Do you think any of your children will go into the business?

“I have two teenage boys, one at university and one at college. I think it is important to support them in their interests and encourage them in what they enjoy. One of them is going to art college in September, so who knows?”

Have you any professional regrets?

“No. I believe strongly in what I do, and although I have made mistakes, it has all been part of the process.”

Apart from your car and house, what is the most expensive thing you’ve ever bought?

“I love art and have bought a few beautiful paintings that have really caught my eye.”

What is your favourite Orla Kiely design?

“The ‘stem’ print, designed in 2000, has been very good to us and is recognised around the world. It was inspired by a simple rowan tree stem and leaves, and has become synonymous with the brand.”

How did you get involved with shoe design?

“I love shoes, so it happened very naturally, and Clarks were really supportive of our ideas.”

What design ambitions do you have left?

“It would be a dream to design a hotel, from the architecture to all the interiors.”

What are your favourite and least favourite design trends? 

“At the moment I am delighted by the return of wallpaper and I hate bling.”

Who are your design heroes?

“Arne Jacobson is in my top five. I loved that he designed it all, from the architecture to the textiles, furniture and objects. Amazing talent and skill.”

Do you think you will ever come back to Ireland?

“Who knows about ever returning permanently, but my family are there and it is always special to go home and see them. I love the countryside in Ireland, and taking the dogs for a walk in the fresh air always helps clear my head and inspire new ideas.”

What are you proudest of looking back on your career so far?

“Getting our much-loved Multi Stem print classic shoulder bag featured on a postage stamp in Ireland was a highlight.”

  • Orla Kiely will open the Lily Lolly Craft Fest in the Yeats Memorial Building in Sligo on June 12th as part of Yeats2015. The Lily Lolly Craftfest celebrates the legacy and contribution of Susan and Elizabeth Yeats (affectionately known as Lily and Lolly), to Irish craft. yeats2015.com