GO VIENNA: With all its orderliness and grandeur, you'd be forgiven for thinking the Austrian capital was rather staid, tame and dull. Nothing could be further from the truth, writes FIONOLA MEREDITH
DON’T GO TO Vienna if you’re a fan of cities with dark, labyrinthine alleyways and gritty urban neighbourhoods. Regularly topping lists of the world’s best places to live, Vienna is supremely civilised, with its imposing imperial architecture, elegant fountains, spacious clean streets and impeccably punctual trains. Even its citizens look freshly scrubbed, and you’d never catch them crossing the road when the red man is showing.
With all this orderliness and grandeur, you’d be forgiven for thinking Vienna was rather staid, tame and dull. Nothing could be further from the truth. Behind that cold facade, Vienna is alive with a thrillingly edgy contemporary cultural scene, much of which draws inspiration from the city’s unique meeting point between east and west.
The spontaneous street art is fabulous (graffiti is too mean a term for it), channelling the iconoclastic spirit that fuelled artistic revolutionaries like Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele and Oskar Kokoschka more than a century before. Forward-thinking government initiatives support all kinds of crazy avant-garde projects, and the big galleries – such as the Kunsthalle Wien and the Museum of Modern Art (MUMOK) – aren’t afraid to programme some fairly eye-popping exhibitions.
Arriving on a January evening, the city seems to hold itself aloof. The streets are empty, the monuments to the Habsburg dynasty sparkle with frost, and even the grand hotels of the Ringstrasse seem buttoned up against the bitter night, only a solitary doorman on the steps, stamping his feet. But know where to look and you’ll find some vibrant nightlife going on. The upstairs bar is packed at Cafe Lutz, on Mariahilferstrasse, the city’s main shopping street, but it’s worth the wait for an expertly-made mojito.
Afterwards, take a stroll across to the nearby Museums Quartier, or MQ, where baroque meets cyberspace. This vast area – housing museums, galleries, bars and cafes – is one of the largest cultural quarters in the world, and the scale alone is impressive. Take the stairs to Cafe Leopold, perched at the top of the Leopold Museum, get a glass of perfectly-chilled Riesling in your hand and find a seat by the glass windows overlooking the MQ courtyard. There’s no better place for people-watching, both inside the bar and out, though be prepared to peer through thick clouds of cigarette smoke.
For all their outward impression of civic obedience, the Viennese are defiantly hardcore nicotine addicts, disregarding all health concerns, and smoking is definitely part of the city’s Gemütlichkeit or vibe. For something a little more alternative, try Elektro Gönner, off Mariahilfer Strasse, a former electrical shop, owned by a group of architects, which has been turned into a distinctly cool and minimalist bar. It offers an ever-changing display of art and video installations. If you visit the loo, do so as demurely as possible – there are secret cameras behind the mirrors, with a direct feed to screens on the outer wall of the bar, for the voyeuristic amusement of passers-by.
DAYTIME VIENNA is best enjoyed at a leisurely pace, punctuated by visits to the city’s many museums and galleries, and by frequent lengthy stops at one of the historic coffee houses. You’re best on foot: Vienna is a compact city, very walkable, and you’ll probably spend most of your time in the central Innere Stadt district.
Start with a stroll around the Hofburg – a series of grand palaces, home to the Habsburg rulers from the 13th century until the collapse of the Austrian monarchy in 1918 – which was built to impress, and it does the job. Domes, colonnades and golden double-headed eagles (symbol of the Habsburgs, it represents Austria as the centre of Europe, demonstrating the Habsburg Empire's sovereignty over east and west) are very much to the fore. A lonely busker, rattling out a cursory rendition of Mozart's Eine Kleine Nachtmusikon his flute, brings a welcome touch of humanity to the scene.
After all that pomp and circumstance, take a break for coffee. Forget the Italian way of quickly downing an espresso while standing at the bar: the Viennese take it easy, flipping through a variety of newspapers while sipping a melange (similar to a cappuccino) and nibbling a slice of apfelstrudel. It was a way of life familiar to Sigmund Freud and Gustav Mahler, and it’s no less popular today. There’s a sense of timelessness in Cafe Sperl, a grand Jugendstil-designed (art nouveau) establishment on Gumpendorferstrasse. You could easily while away the entire day here.
Cafe Hawelka, on Dorotheergasse – near to Stephansdom, the Gothic cathedral with its surprising stripy tiled roof – is a dark and smoky Viennese institution, long celebrated as a haunt of artists and writers. Despite the bow-tied waiters, it’s an informal spot, as evidenced by a large labrador snoozing on the floor while his family munch their way through platefuls of Sachertorte, the defining Viennese dessert. That’s two layers of chocolate cake, sandwiched together with apricot jam, beneath a crisp shell of chocolate icing – and a squirt of aerated cream on the side.
When it comes to dining, the Viennese certainly like their carbs. The classic dish, of course, is Wiener Schnitzel – a battened-out veal escalope (though pork and chicken are often used today) breadcrumbed and fried, usually served with a portion of pleasantly gloopy potato salad. Good luck moving after consuming one of these delicacies. Hearty goulashes, stews and casseroles abound too, perfect for chilly winter nights.
The best places for authentic food are Beisln – simple restaurants, rather like Italian trattorias, serving rustic, seasonal dishes. If you’re lucky, there may be an English translation on the menu, though that’s not always helpful: one Beisl offers the intriguing-sounding “minced heart and lounge of beef”.
Heading down towards the Wien River, watch out for Secession on Friedrichstrasse: you can’t miss the delicate sphere of gilded laurel leaves – known to the Viennese as the “golden cabbage” – on the roof of this striking white building. Look out for the tortoises supporting the ceramic pots at the front door.
Secession is the motherlode of Viennese modernism, and it contains Gustav Klimt's unmissable Beethoven Frieze(1902), on permanent display in the basement. Intended as a stinging riposte to the conservatism of the turn of the century Viennese art world, it had the desired effect: contemporary reviews branded it as a "shameless caricature of the noble human figure" and "painted pornography".
CLOSE BY, on the Linke Wienzeile, is the vast Naschmarkt, Vienna’s oldest and best food market, which stretches for almost a mile. It’s as much a treat for the eyes and nose as it is for the stomach: gusts of spice, lactic whiffs of cheese and drifts of barbecue smoke hang in the air, while great baskets of pomegranates and barrels of olives vie for space with stalls selling wines, Turkish falafel, cream-cheese-stuffed tomatoes and every variety of wurst. It’s a good place to pick up little treats for foot-sore children weary of art and museums.
Back in the Innere Stadt, a stop-off at Zanoni and Zanoni for an authentic Italian gelato should keep young spirits up too. But for the definitive children’s experience, head to Zoom, in the Museums Quartier. It offers a year-round exhibition and workshop programme as well as a unique multimedia lab where children can have a go at making their own film. Not surprisingly, it’s a popular spot, so it’s wise to book ahead.
After a long day of art, schnitzels, coffee and cakes, it might just be bedtime. But for those with the enthusiasm, the energy (and perhaps the necessary childcare), why not take a disco nap and get out there again? Viennese clubs offer something for people of all ages. Again, it’s a case of knowing where to look. At Wirr, a laid-back club on Burgasse, there’s everything from 1960s girl bands through Balkan rhythms to a mysterious genre called Kaiser Smooth. Don’t fight it: it’s all good.
* wien.info
Where to stay, eat and go in the Austrian capital
5 places to stay
1. Hotel Viennart. Breite Gasse 9, 00-43-1-523-1345, austrotel.at. This boutique-on-a-budget hotel has the perfect location: immediately behind the Museums Quartier – simple cross the road, climb a flight of stairs and you’re right in the city’s cultural hub. While the arty foyer is impressive – a cappuccino machine, free for guests, is a nice touch – the rooms themselves have a rather odd 1980s-style decor. Rooms from €65.
2. Hotel Rathaus. Lange Gasse 13, 00-43-1-400-1122, hotel-rathaus-wien.at. Each of the rooms in this smart boutique hotel are dedicated to a top Austrian winemaker, and the minibar is well stocked with their produce. Fortunately the food – especially the lavish, healthy breakfast – is as good as the drink. Rooms from €138.
3. The Ring. Kaerntner Ring, 00-43-1-22122, theringhotel.com. Casual luxury is the agenda here – you won’t find any fusty-dusty pompous style in this high-end hotel right on the Ringstrasse. The opulence is discreet and understated. Expect Molton Brown toiletries and a sauna with a view of the magnificent Karlskirche. Rooms from €300.
4. Roomz. Paragonstrasse 1, 00-43-1-743-1777, roomz-vienna.com. Okay, so you’re quite a bit out of the centre when you stay here. But if you’re determined to have cool, eye-catching living space while on a tight budget, it will be worth it. And the U-bahn stop at the Gasometer will whizz you straight into the Innere Stadt. Rooms from €70.
5. Pension am Operneck. Kärntner Strasse 47, 00-43-1-512-9310. Vienna’s pensionen (BBs) can be a very good bet, and Operneck is brilliantly situated, just across the road from the Hotel Sacher, so you can skip across for coffee and a slice of the famous cake at will. The rooms may be a little old-fashioned, but the location and the price are sound. Rooms from €65.
5 places to eat
1. Osterreicher im MAK. Stubenring 5, 00-43-1-714-0121, oesterreicherimmak.at. You’d expect a restaurant in a design museum to look good, and this one doesn’t disappoint. More importantly, the food is exquisite. If you’re after traditional dishes, the Wiener Schnitzel is divine, but if you’re feeling more adventurous, chef Helmut Osterreicher specialises in giving Viennese dishes an exotic twist. There’s a fine selection of Austrian wines too.
2. Glacis Beisl. Museumsplatz 1, 00-43-1-526-5660, glacisbeisl.at. Situated just behind the Museums Quartier, Glacis Beislis what’s known as a neo-Beisl – a traditional eatery with contemporary flourishes. It’s a no-frills kind of place, with blood sausages, gulasch and other robust dishes on the menu. Servings are man-sized. Glacis also has a lovely garden for summer dining, overhung by walnut trees.
3. Cafe Drechsler. Girardigasse 1,00-43-1-581-2044, cafedrechsler.at. Open from 3am to well past midnight, this sleek contemporary cafe facing the Nachtsmarkt serves up excellent desserts and salads. It attracts a mixed crowd of well-heeled families, clubbers and market-goers. The Sachertorte, with a sprinkling of toasted flaked almonds, is particularly fine.
4. Schilling. Burgasse 103, 00-43-1-524-1775, schilling-wirt.at. A charming neighbourhood restaurant in the 7th district, serving locals for almost 100 years. A simple wood panelled room, with good old-fashioned comfort food and some delicious desserts: try the Böhmische Palatschinke.
5. Cafe Europa. Zollergasse 8, 00-43-1-526-3383, europa-lager.at. Breakfast is the big draw at this 7th District cafe. It’s good any day of the week, but the grand breakfast buffet on Sunday is the real treat. Just €10 will get you coffee and unlimited grazing on a vast selection of delicious yoghurt, fruits, cold meats, cheeses, salads and breads.
5 places to go
1. The Leopold Museum. Museumsplatz 1, 00-43-1-525-700, leopoldmuseum.org. Named after Rudolf Leopold, a Viennese opthalmologist with a passion for the provocative art of Egon Schiele. Leopold sold his private collection of modernist Austrian art to the government in 1994, and it forms the basis for this wonderful exhibit. Also home to the Klimt masterpiece Death and Life.
2. Albertina. Augustinerstrasse 1, 00-43-1-534-830, albertina.at. If you visit only one museum in Vienna, make it this one. Named after the 18th-century Duke Alberta, a committed art collector, it contains the world’s largest collection of graphic art. The building itself successfully merges 21st-century design with 17th-century imperial grandeur.
3. The Third Man Museum. Pressgasse 25, 00-43-1-586-4872, 3mpc.net. Who can forget Harry Lime in Vienna? This family-run private collection, only open on Saturday afternoons, is devoted to memorabilia from the famous 1948 film, shot on location in Vienna. Pursue Lime through a Viennese sewer, find out about Vienna in the post-war years and listen to 400 cover versions of the famous theme tune.
4. Ost Klub. Schwarzenbergplatz 10, 00-43-1-505-6228, ost-klub.at. This is the club where East meets West. Expect a night of high-octane Balkan beats, often fused bizarrely together with hip-hop, disco and rock, with everyone leaping madly on the dancefloor. So wrong it’s right. Also a good spot to sample the obscure delights of Hungarian ska. Don’t expect to go home before sunrise.
5. Oceanum Salzgrotte. Untere Viaduktgasse 6, 00-43-1-890-3600, salzgrotte.at. An unusual opportunity to experience the healing and invigorating powers of crystal salt. Visitors to the Oceanum Salt Cave are offered breathing training sessions, which are believed to increase stamina and strengthen the immune system. There are special sessions for children where they can play and dig in the salt pit.
Hot spot
Phil. Gumpendorferstrasse 10-12, 00-43-1-581-0489, phil.info. A delightful spot somewhere between a furniture shop, a bookshop and a cafe, mainly populated by what the Viennese call “bobos”, or bourgeois bohemians. Relax on the vintage designer furniture: if you really like it, you can buy it and take it home. The music is good and the coffee and snacks are delicious, especially the hot cheese and salami sandwich . . . which is knowingly named Bobo Toast.
Shop spot
Mariahilferstrasse is one of the main shopping streets, but why bother with the familiar high-street names? You’ll have more fun diverting off on to nearby side streets – especially Neubaugasse, Lindengasse and Kirchengasse, with their small, surprisingly affordable designer boutiques – including some selling lovely clothes for children. Check out Wood Wood on Zollergasse for Scandinavian chic. Viennese chocolates and patisserie are world famous: try Oberlaa, near the cathedral, for exquisitely-packaged chocolates and macaroons, or Xocolat in the Palais Ferstel – one of Vienna’s first specialist shops for chocolate connoisseurs. Don’t forget that most shops close all day on Sunday. If you’re in the city on a Saturday, try the extraordinary Flohmarkt, which adjoins the Naschmarkt from dawn until 4pm. Everything from ancient mobile phones to exquisite coloured glass vases is for sale.
When to go
Winter feels like Vienna’s natural season, as the city sparkles in the frost. The Christmas markets are justifiably popular, while you can have the city almost to yourself in January and February. May and June brings the Soho in Ottakring festival, where disused premises are given new life as pop-up art galleries. Summers in Vienna can be sweltering. Spring is lovely, when the trees are in bud and the pavement cafes open.
Go there
Aer Lingus (aerlingus.com) flies from Dublin to Vienna.