When my late aunt Maine’s sister-in-law, Lilah, died, my aunt took the bus from Dublin to London to clear out her rented flat. She was gone on her journey before we knew it, otherwise one of us would definitely have accompanied her to help. My aunt arranged for some of the furniture to be shipped back to Ireland, and later distributed it among us. I have a mirror, and a 1920s silver cigarette box that belonged to Lilah.
Lilah, like my uncle Gerald, was born in India, not long after Queen Victoria died. Their Irish father, Major William Bruen, served with the Connaught Rangers there, and was later decorated with the Military Cross.
It was only after Maine herself died that we found shelved among her books something she had carried back with her on the bus from London, all those years ago, but never shown to us. It was a red-velvet booklet, with still-bright gold braid stitched down the spine, golden endpapers, a metallic gold tassel, and a small gold crown set with four blue stones on the cover.
The golden endpaper read: “Quaglino’s Restaurant. Festivities to celebrate the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II.” The date was June 2nd, 1953, exactly 69 years ago today. Inside was a menu for a seven-course “Diner du Gala”, all in French.
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Also tucked into the little booklet was a card, headed “Hotel and Catering Consultative Committee”. It was a pass for “Coronation Processions”, to enable Lilah — “Miss Bruen” — to reach Quaglino’s on 16 Bury Street at St James’s by 7am. She was working there, although in what capacity I do not know. I dimly recall hearing she was a hostess.
Today, the queen starts her four days of celebrations of a Platinum Jubilee. She has long outlived Lilah, and my aunt. It’s almost seven decades since she was crowned, and this Gala Dinner was held in Quaglino’s in her honour, presumably to guests. I doubt Lilah got to eat the fancy seven-course dinner, but she did attain one of these menus as a keepsake.
This was what was on the menu that evening: Foie gras delight with port jelly. Followed by something Google Translate — as I don’t speak French — suggests is “The turtle cut from the islands in sherry”. Was it mock turtle soup, something that used to be popular? Then Golden Feuillantines. Mignonnette of Royal Sole. Queen Elizabeth Chicken Supreme, green beans in butter and Windsor potatoes. Green asparagus and “sauce divine”. Strawberries refreshed with liqueurs. Biscuit ice cream. And sweets. There is no wine list, but wine would definitely have even consumed, along with toasts to the newly crowned queen.
I kept the little red velvet-covered booklet because it’s a beautiful, hand-made object, as well as being an item of social history, although British social history is not my history. What strikes me most now is that the menu is in French. Quaglino’s was a famous London restaurant back in the day, and the fact they chose to list the menu for this momentous occasion in French seems so ironic now. Britain has since infamously chosen to leave the European Union.
If there are current counterparts of Quaglino’s with “gala dinners” happening tonight by invitation in London, somehow, I do not think their menus will be in French.
