Invariably depicted as an avuncular figure footing it around Ireland in impractical episcopal robes, St Patrick is credited with Christianising the entire population without suffering any speed bumps or mishaps on the way.
The reality is, of course, more complex. Living when the Roman empire was in terminal decline, history’s most famous Irishman was actually born British.
In his writing, Patrick recounts how he was captured by raiders and sold into slavery in Ireland. Six years later, he experienced a religious epiphany while tending sheep and believed God was calling him. Motivated to escape, he fled and, after many adventures, arrived home to Britain.
After studying to become a bishop and then experiencing an apparition that suggested the Irish people sought his return, he went back to Ireland with the aim of spreading the Gospel.
It isn’t easy to comprehend the enormity of this task. Ireland was inhabited by a warlike and widely dispersed population, with no towns, centralised administration or written language. Wolves roamed the countryside, a simple river crossing could be life-threatening, while the few roads that existed were often little more than rights of way. In each community, the Druids were powerful, priestly figures, who guarded their control over legal and spiritual life.
[ Who was St Patrick? More than one person, probablyOpens in new window ]
On the plus side, Patrick spoke Irish, understood local customs and preached a belief system offering the compelling vision of an afterlife reunion with loved ones. Since the Roman empire had been officially Christian for more than a century, it is also likely that many Irish people would have been aware of Christianity and possible that some practised the new faith.
Nevertheless, the task was challenging. In his writing, Patrick describes being beaten, robbed, put in chains and held captive for 60 days. The most surprising aspect is not that these misfortunes befell him but thathe survived. But survive he did, with his feast day later morphing into an international goodwill fest for Ireland that involves greening some of the world’s most iconic locations.
St Patrick remains something of an enigma, however. Outside of the scant facts contained within his deeply introspective writings, relatively little is known for certain about his life. Mythology compensates in this regard, providing a wonderfully rich narrative. Let’s now follow in the footsteps of Ireland’s national apostle where the raw facts have been skilfully reimagined to create a compelling storyline aimed at meeting the aspirations of later generations.
Slemish, Co Antrim
Located east of Ballymena, this is the hill where Patrick is reputed to have tended flocks and experienced a spiritual epiphany to become a believer in Christ. It’s a short but rather challenging 30-minute ascent, with careful climbing required to overcome obstacles near the top. On the summit there is nothing to suggest the mountain’s association with Patrick but the haunting views over the Antrim Glens to the evocative northeast coastline more than compensate. An organised climb of the mountain takes place on St Patrick’s Day; information at midandeastantrim.gov.uk.
Saul, Co Down
Legend holds that when St Patrick was returning to Ireland in 432, strong winds swept his boat into Strangford Lough. Landing at Saul, on what was, by any standards, a dangerous mission aimed at subverting paganism, he cannily got the local chieftain Dichu on side by converting him. He was then granted a barn by the newly Christianised chieftain, which became Ireland’s first church. After visiting the 20th Century Celtic revival chapel on this site, you can then follow Stations of the Cross on a 20-minute hike of Patrick’s Hill where, carved from the local Mourne granite, stands the world’s tallest statue of the Apostle. On a clear day, there is also the reward of magnificent views over Strangford Lough and the Mourne Mountains.
Slane, Co Meath
It is here, with heroic indifference to royal custom, that Patrick put down his first marker. Ascending the Hill of Slane, he lit a Pascal flame in advance of King Laoghaire’s Bealtaine fire at Tara. In normal circumstances this would have peremptorily ended his Irish mission almost before it had begun. Instead, the chutzpah of the act brought the king partly onside: although he did not embrace Christianity, Laoghaire allowed Patrick to continue his missionary work. The symbolism was clear: Christianity had triumphed over paganism and would soon conquer all of Ireland.
Located about 1km north of Slane, it’s a 10-minute ramble to the monastic site atop the hill offering expansive views over Co Meath. One part of St Patrick’s story immediately rings true; you can clearly see Tara 16km to the south, although Patrick’s fire must have been a mighty inferno to have attracted attention from this distance.
Cashel, Co Tipperary
Next stop on our patrician odyssey is the Rock of Cashel. Here, mythology has Patrick carrying off another considerable coup by baptising Aengus, king of Munster, to become Ireland’s first Christian monarch. Reputedly he also met St Declan of Ardmore who held powerful sway over Waterford’s Deise region and is believed by many to have predated Patrick as an Irish missionary.
[ St Declan’s Way: Will Ireland’s newest pilgrim trail become an ‘Irish Camino’?Opens in new window ]
Here, the myth builders have Patrick emphasising his dominance by appointing Declan Bishop of the Deise and being recognised in return as Primate of All Ireland, thus reinforcing the claim of Armagh to primacy over the Irish Church. For those visiting the Rock, the excellent guided tour recounts the colourful story of Patrick’s visit, but it is important to remember that the buildings on the site are from a much later period.
Croagh Patrick, Co Mayo
Patrick came this way along an ancient road known today as the Tóchar Phádraig to fast on the mountain summit and, apparently, while away some of his time by banishing the snakes from Ireland. Since there is no evidence that there were ever snakes in Ireland, this is probably a metaphor that was later created to represent the banishing of evil from Ireland with the coming of Christianity. If you decide to climb to the mountaintop, which takes about 3.5 hours, you can now use the new steps built at all the steepest places to facilitate assent and descent. On a clear day the sublime summit views are well worth the effort.
Lough Derg, Co Donegal
Patrick arrives here to discover that a serpent in the lake is terrorising locals. Naturally he quickly deals with the problem but the dead monster’s blood stains the water, creating Lough Derg – the red lake. By the 12th century, a cave on Station Island in which St Patrick was reputedly shown a vision of purgatory had become a renowned place of pilgrimage; it was one of the few Irish locations denoted on medieval maps, with pilgrims coming from as far away as Hungary.
[ Lough Derg: the Ironman of pilgrimagesOpens in new window ]
An easy and enjoyable outing is the 12km pilgrim path that follows the lakeside route taken by medieval penitents heading for Saints Island, where an Augustinian monastery offering accommodation once stood. There is also the option of going for broke and returning to complete the immensely tough three-day Lough Derg Pilgrimage between June and August.
Armagh city
Coming a full circle, we now fetch up at Navan Fort, Co Armagh. Here, Patrick healed a local chieftain named Daire, who, in gratitude, donated the site for a hilltop church. This allowed our national apostle to finally put down roots and establish the seat of Irish Christianity at Armagh. You will discover that the city, which is the last resting place of Irish High King Brian Ború, is one of Ireland’s hidden gems. If you visit both the Catholic and Church of Ireland cathedrals, which are located on hilltops, you will most certainly be captivated by the breathtaking views over the city.
Downpatrick, Co Down
When close to death, Patrick was told by an angel to leave Armagh and return to his original landing place at Saul, Co Down. The angel then reappeared and decreed Patrick’s body should be placed on an ox cart and buried where the oxen stopped. This was in Downpatrick, at a location that is now beside magnificent Down Cathedral. Situated on a hill overlooking the town, the cathedral contains superb stained-glass windows, but the main attraction lies in the grounds. An inscribed stone of Mourne granite marks the reputed final resting place of St Patrick. Afterwards, it would be remiss not to walk the short distance down the hill to St Patrick’s Centre. This is a well-laid-out visitor experience telling the story of the Saint’s life and is, surprisingly, the world’s only permanent exhibition dedicated to Patrick.
John G O’Dwyer’s new book, Great Irish Pilgrim Journeys, is published by Currach Books.
