Earth has not anything to show more fair:
Dull would he be of soul who could pass by
A sight so touching in its majesty:
The City now does like a garment, wear
The beauty of the morning ...
I have often thought of William Wordsworth’s poem on early morning walks, not on the Westminster Bridge about which this poem was written, but around Belgravia, a place I called home for several years, and to which I always try to return when visiting the city. White stucco townhouses, superb Georgian architecture by John Nash and beautifully landscaped gardens give the area its unmistakable character. It’s the definition of quiet luxury, home to several posh squares where impeccably kept gardens are particularly pretty in spring. Belgrave Square is one – a peep over the railings reveals elegant paths, classical sculptures and cherry blossoms. Cadogan Square is another, in which an old Prunus Ukon cherry tree, defined by its creamy-white double flower, blooms.
March to May is the best time of year to plan a visit to London, when visitors are surrounded by fabulous florals of every description. Head to the Saatchi Gallery, on the King’s Road, which celebrates its 40th anniversary this year, to see its blockbuster exhibition, Flowers – Flora in Contemporary Art & Culture, until May 5th. This will spark joy and documents the influence of flowers on creativity and the collective psyche, with works by Irish creatives Sorcha O’Raghallaigh and Philip Colbert among many others.
Stock up at a deli and go to the nearest park for your own “hanami picnic”. There some 3,000 parks in the city – offering more green spaces than any other city in the world. At this time of year, London is awash with cherry blossom, partly due to planting and presents. During the 2019-2020 Japanese Cultural Festival in London, 6,500 new cherry trees were planted all over the UK. Regent’s Park received a gift of 125 beautiful Yoshino cherry trees, which now enhance the main avenue.
Nine of the largest parks including Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park are overseen by a charity called The Royal Parks. They were originally created exclusively for the amusement of royalty and aristocracy. However, in 1851 the Crown Lands Act was passed, allowing civilians to enjoy them “by grace and favour”. One way to see a large part of these (and get your steps in for the day) is to take the 11km Princess of Wales Memorial Walk, which is marked with 90 plaques, and takes in three palaces and two mansions that played a pivotal role in her life (including Spencer House and Clarence House).
Hyde Park is on the route, one of Irish designer Louise Kennedy’s favourite spots when she is not meeting clients at her London boutique in Belgravia. “Hyde Park is such a vast and beautiful space, and no matter how many times I visit, I always seem to discover something new,” she says. “The Rose Garden is absolutely stunning, especially in bloom, and I love walking by the lake and The Serpentine. It’s the perfect place for a peaceful morning stroll or an afternoon escape from the city.”
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“There is a garden off Thurlow Square in South Kensington, which has a mature Edgeworthia shrub,” says Northern Irish florist and royal warrant holder Shane Connolly. “Walking past, when it’s in flower and full of that extraordinary, exotic scent, is a blossom time treat.”
Another place Connolly recommends is The Garden Museum, which celebrates the art, history and design of gardens via interesting exhibitions. Cecil Beaton’s Garden Party opens on May 14th, demonstrating how gardens and flowers were a common thread in Beaton’s creative process as a photographer, costume and set designer. “The permanent display is always wonderful too, as is the ever-changing Dan Pearson planting around the museum,” says Connolly, who is collaborating with the Charles Eden Gallery in Mayfair, on an exhibition celebrating the beauty of ancient Roman glass, May 28th-June 4th.
After 17 years as a resident, Neill Strain is another acclaimed Northern Irish florist who calls London home. He was drawn to the quiet sophistication of Belgravia and its neighbourhood feel.
“Belgravia has a way of revealing itself slowly to those who take the time to explore, and that’s what I love most about it. I appreciate the unique selection of coffee shops (Hagen), restaurants (Amelie, Salloos and Mosimann’s) and specialist boutiques such as Fiona Finds and Mia Reay Designs – places where quality and individuality are at the forefront,” he says.
His floral boutiques in Belgravia, Mayfair and within Harrods are always talking points, decorated in thematic seasonal florals, which make for striking photo backdrops.
For friends and family visits, Strain recommends coming to London for Belgravia in Bloom from May 19th to 26th, an event that sees the neighbourhood transform with stunning floral installations. “This year’s theme is Through the Seasons, a celebration of nature’s ever-changing beauty. It runs simultaneously to the RHS Chelsea Flower Show week, when the area truly comes alive with creativity and blooms and London’s social season gets under way.”
As for Neill’s favourite parks, they include St James’s, with its views of Buckingham Palace, and The Chelsea Physic Garden, one of London’s oldest botanical gardens, which offers a fascinating glimpse into the world of medicinal and exotic flora. A tonic for all senses. As Wordsworth declared, “Dull would he be of soul who could pass by/ A sight so touching in its majesty”.
Best places to stay
B+B Belgravia
If you are unfamiliar with Belgravia and where to stay, Ebury Street is a good starting point, where you’ll find several hotels and guest houses including B&B Belgravia, part of a group that has other locations in York and Edinburgh. It’s set across three Georgian town houses, five minutes from Victoria Station, with a comfortable lounge and small, private garden. Rooms range from studios and serviced apartments to spacious double rooms. It’s just opposite Eccleston Yards, an arty courtyard development with an interesting collection of independent shops, restaurants, wine bars and wellness studios. bb-belgravia.com
The Goring, Belgravia
Described as a “baby grand”, this is London’s last remaining family-owned luxury hotel. It epitomises English charm and humour (expect to find fluffy sheep dotted about the hotel and, if you are lucky, a sighting of Teddy, the pet Shetland pony). It was originally built by Otto Goring in 1910, and his great-grandson Jeremy has been refreshing the hotel with swish new interiors by Russell Sage Studio – think flamboyant florals, jewel colours and witty artworks. It’s impeccable without being condescending, and famous for its links with past and present royals. Whether you pop in for a drink in the clubby Cocktail Bar (order The Garden Negroni), book afternoon tea on the Veranda overlooking the serene garden or enjoy dinner in the Michelin-starred restaurant, which is whimsical, theatrical and fun, you are sure to leave with special memories. thegoring.com
The Berkeley, Belgravia
As the city’s embassy belt, Belgravia is home to some of London’s most iconic hotels, bringing a cosmopolitan, international energy to the area. The Berkeley is one such, and a favourite of designer Louise Kennedy. “There’s nothing better than starting your morning with breakfast in The Collins Room, which is such a beautiful space,” she says. “The Berkeley Bar and Terrace, designed by Irish designers Bryan O’Sullivan and James O’Neill, and The Blue Bar, designed by the late David Collins, are always favourites for an evening drink. In the summer the rooftop is unbeatable, with stunning views of Hyde Park.” the-berkeley.co.uk
The Lime Tree Hotel, Belgravia
This boutique bolt-hole is one of my favourite places to stay in the city. The hotel, housed in two historic townhouses, has 26 pretty rooms, as well as a “secret” walled garden, lounge and cafe-style restaurant, The Buttery, where breakfast is served for residents. It’s on the doorstep of Elizabeth Street – probably one of the best streets in London – which is home to milliner Philip Treacy’s atelier, Jo Loves’ flagship boutique, Summerill & Bishop as well as Me+Em. limetreehotel.co.uk
The Emory, Belgravia
The Emory, designed by the late Richard Rogers and architect Ivan Harbour, is one of London’s newest hotels. Its distinctive architectural “sails” soar above the treetops of Hyde Park. As London’s first all-suite hotel, it has a discreet access via a cobbled entrance on Old Barrack Yard, and was decorated by Rémi Tessier, who has imbued the bars on the ground floor and rooftop with a sense of warmth and calm. the-emory.co.uk
The Chelsea Townhouse, Chelsea
This boutique hotel is one of only a few hotels in London with a private garden – which makes it feel like an elegant private home. There are 35 rooms in different categories. Horticulture enthusiasts will enjoy the Garden Suites, named after famous landscape architects and gardens, including the Ranelagh, which have direct access to Cadogan Gardens. This is a riot of blossoms and bird song with sheltered benches, perfect for borrowing a book from the hotel library or savouring a cocktail from the bar. As part of the Relais & Chateaux group, its all-day dining menu is a highlight. thechelseatownhouse.com
The Rubens at the Palace, Victoria
Within what I call the rarefied golden triangle of Victoria, Pimlico and Belgravia, Rubens at the Palace couldn’t be better placed. It’s part of the Red Carnation Collection and, like its sister hotels – Ashford Castle and The Milestone being two – it is opulent and traditional, with top-hatted doormen, silver trolley service, a resident jazz singer and lots of red and gilt decor in the communal restaurant areas. A notable feature is its remarkable Living Wall made from 10,000 herbaceous plants. rubenshotel.com
11 Cadogan Gardens, Chelsea
If you are touching down in London for a shopping trip in Knightsbridge or Sloane Square, this hotel is in a fabulous location. Pavilion Road, London’s longest mews lined with Victorian-era stable blocks, is now a haven for beauty and fashion boutiques. There’s also an edible trail promoting urban gardening and sustainable gardening principles during which visitors are encouraged to try their hand at foraging. As for the hotel, it comprises four separate townhouses and is a maze of art-filled corridors, staircases and hallways leading to eclectic rooms, some of which overlook Cadogan Gardens. 11cadogangardens.com
Artist Residence, Pimlico
In this quirky 10-bedroom townhouse, each guest room is decorated with a bold artwork such as the limited-edition print by the street artist Pure Evil in the Club Suite. Pimlico Road Design District is close by, where you’ll find art, antiques and design boutiques galore, such as Irish rug designer Luke Irwin’s store as well Robert Kime’s and Sibyl Colefax & Fowler’s iconic boutiques. artistresidence.co.uk
Penny McCormick was a guest of The Goring in London earlier this year
