Bottle Of The Week

Ahead of the pack by a short head for quality and value, Paarl Heights Chenin Blanc 1996 (outlets above, usually £5.45) is a lovely summer drink at a very lenient price. Unlike many of its compatriots, this South African is made from 40-year-old unirrigated vines - one reason, no doubt, why its flavours are nicely concentrated and the overall impact classy. The next best thing to January sunshine on the Cape.