Ireland has a £5 billion food and drinks industry. The drink has always more or less spoken for itself, the stouts, the whiskeys, the cream liqueurs. It has taken a different effort, though, to develop an indigenous cuisine that could make its own mark and compete with the best.
But all over the State that has happened. We are now spoiled for choice, and the standards are rising. The fact that Irish people are getting better at making their voices heard, at complaining, must have something to do with it.
Kinsale, nestling in an inlet of Cork Harbour, has played its part. It has become a focus for lovers of good food, with good reason. Many years ago what might be described as a standards committee was formed by restaurateurs in the town to offer the highest-quality food, served fresh and attractively. Those who came together in the project called themselves the Good Food Circle.
It numbers 11 restaurants. People have their favourites, but the common denominator is that good food is available consistently.
The circle, established in 1975-1976, has brought massive benefits to the Kinsale economy. The restaurants are a magnet, not only during the annual Gourmet Festival on the first weekend in October, but also at other times of the year. Kinsale has become synonymous with fine food.
Out of the festival grew the Food Forum, which was started in 1989, largely because of the influence of the minister for food, Mr Joe Walsh. It ran in Kinsale as an international shop window for food writers and buyers from all over the world until 1995 on a biennial basis.
But a change of government brought with it pressure to move the forum to Dublin, which happened in 1997. Governments, like menus, tend to keep changing, however, and when he returned to the Cabinet as Minister for Agriculture, Mr Walsh ensured that the forum would return to Kinsale.
It is now firmly back on track, reincarnated as Ireland's first speciality food symposium. It will run from April 23rd to 25th and bring together 200 of the most influential international food buyers, some 70 Irish speciality food companies, and press from around the world.
This is intended to be a showcase for the best we can offer. The speciality food and small business sector is growing in economic terms, with a current turnover of approximately £90 million. It employs almost 1,500 people.
This event is being organised in recognition of the sector's achievements and to help boost its £20 million exports over the next three years.
Kinsale will provide the "perfect location for the event," Mr Walsh said. The 200 international buyers who will assemble in Kinsale for the symposium will have a combined purchasing power of £500 million.
Mr Michael Duffy, chief executive of Bord Bia, thinks the presence of key food exports will provide a new launching pad for the sector. There will be an exchange of information, food tastings and business development opportunities. "We intend to give a demonstration of Irish expertise in speciality foods that our trade visitors will not be able to forget for a long time, and preferably not at all," he said.
Who will be there to fly the flag for Irish speciality foods? Names such as the Skellig Chocolate Company of Co Kerry; the Shannon Basket of Fine Foods, also of Co Kerry; Juniper Foods of Co Tipperary; Lios na Grai Foods, the Co Limerick producer of wild Irish honey and liquor-based preserves; an array of farmhouse cheese producers; seafood processors; and small but quietly successful food firms from Donegal to Bantry.