A summery fish dish with a Japanese twist

JP McMahon: Kelp cured mackerel is perfect paired with an Irish summer salad

The higher temperatures always give me a yearning for seafood, writes JP McMahon. Photograph: iStock
The higher temperatures always give me a yearning for seafood, writes JP McMahon. Photograph: iStock

Sunnier days seem to be on the horizon with better weather heading our way in the month of June. The higher temperatures always give me a yearning for seafood, especially fish that is raw, cured, or lightly smoked. A few simple slices of Burren smoked salmon on brown seeded soda bread would suffice, with a little Cuinneog butter spread over the surface. Perhaps a touch of lemon, or a pinch of freshly chopped herbs. Fish cries out for gentle bitterness and acidity, so pair it with crisp green leaves, slightly salted radicchio and radishes, and of course, plenty of lemon.

Another summery fish option that may be new to many is a Japanese process called kobujime. It involves curing the fish between two sheets of kelp for one to two hours in the fridge. Any firm white fish can be used for this such as cod, John Dory, snapper, ling, or pollock. Indeed, I have tried it with mackerel and it is surprisingly delicious. By placing the fish between the kelp sheets, it removes a certain amount of moisture, helping to develop the flavour of the fish. Furthermore, the process imparts flavour from the kombu in the form of natural monosodium glutamate. That is salt (sodium) combined with glutamic acid also known as glutamate, a type of amino acid that our bodies produce naturally.

How to make kelp cured mackerel

Take four mackerel fillets and season lightly with sea salt. I don’t bother pinboning them as you can simply slice either side of the fillet before serving. Brush or spray two dried kombu sheets with sake, gin or just water if you like. Lay the fish between the kombu sheets and place in the fridge for one or two hours.

To serve: remove the fish from the kelp. Remove the bones of the fish by slicing either side of the fillets. This will give you eight strips of mackerel. In Japan, fish such as this is served with lemon and wasabi, but really this type of fish would work well in a fresh Irish summer salad of leaves, cucumber and tomatoes, which all should be available now.