In Ireland we consume more pork than any other meat. Despite this, you very rarely see pigs in the flesh, or maybe that’s just me? Long ago, pigs would have roamed wild and been hunted as a food source, before being domesticated alongside cattle and sheep. While cattle and sheep were used for milk and wool, the pig was reared only for food, and this remains true to this day. Just think about our daily diet, from rashers and sausages in the morning, to ham or salami sandwiches at your desk, to your boiled bacon with cabbage for dinner, all thanks to the humble hog.
The pig is also responsible for one of the greatest dishes I have ever eaten. A descendant of the world-famous dish by acclaimed French chef Pierre Koffmann, it was given an Irish twist by the equally acclaimed Kevin Thornton. Pigs trotter, or crubeen as it is affectionately known here, was painstakingly boned out by hand, leaving behind only the delicate meat, fat and skin. It was then stuffed with a meat mousse flavoured with bacon, truffle and salted pork fat before being steamed, roasted and glazed in a sauce made from the roasted bones, poitín and apple balsamic vinegar. For me, this showcased the magic of fine dining, turning industrial ingredients into works of art – or water into wine, if you will.
There is no fine dining in this week’s recipes, but they still deliver some full-on flavour. Porchetta is a traditional Italian dish from the region of Lazio, referenced in writings going back more than 2,000 years. A celebratory dish, it is one I cook for special occasions, at the weekend. It involves stuffing, rolling and tying a pork belly, using your knife skills to ensure the exposed skin sits on the outside of the roll, ready to blister and burst into golden crispy crackling in the oven.
I’ve kept the Mediterranean theme alive by using capers, mustard, parsley and anchovies in the filling. Although there is a little skill involved in tying the meat, you can always ask you butcher to do it for you. I’ve given detailed instructions for each step and, trust me, this recipe repays your efforts handsomely.
Pork belly tacos with pineapple salsa is more straightforward. The first step involves making a paste with ingredients from the bottom of your fridge and the store cupboard. It may seem unconventional, but leaving the skins on the onions, chilli and garlic makes a difference to the flavour of the meat, while saving time faffing around with peeling and chopping.
A strong blender is needed to make a smooth paste, but once you see the resulting flavour of barbecue and smoke, you’ll probably end up using this technique more often. The fruity pineapple salsa is a perfect foil for the spicy marinade, while the lime juice cuts through the fat in the pork belly.
This is food made for sharing. I usually slice up the soft meat and serve it on the tray in the middle of the table, covered in Iime zest and sea salt. Authentic soft corn tacos make a big difference and can be found in speciality stores around Ireland and online. If you can’t get them, use sandwich wraps or even some soft sliced pan to soak up all those savoury juices.
