This week I’m focusing on cherries, the juicy, rounded red fruit that will be hitting our shelves very soon. They are known for their deep red colour and intense sweet flavour, and the season is short, beginning around July. European cherries will start to land on shelves from next week, with a season lasting from early June to August. Cherries need plenty of sun and heat to develop good fruit. With the weather of late, we could even see them land earlier than expected this year.
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We used to serve perfectly conditioned cherries from the Cerét region of France, in the foothills of the Pyrenees, in a restaurant where I used to work. Before they arrived, we had grand plans for complicated and artistic dish designs. Upon tasting them, we quickly realised these were one of those magic ingredients that needed zero intervention. A perfect balance of sugar and acid, we decided to serve them as they were, on the stem, over crushed ice. Being the middle of summer, it proved the perfect ending to a lighter menu, particularly with a cup of herbal tea or single espresso.
This week’s recipes will equip you for the season ahead with both savoury and sweet options. The first uses duck breast, a readily available and cost-effective meat that is easier than you might think to cook. I’ve added the technique here that I learned in a classic French kitchen – using a low heat to melt down the fat layer between the meat and the skin so the skin goes crispy. With the cherries, I have made a very simple compote that can be batch cooked and kept for months in the fridge. Perfect with the duck, it’s also very versatile. Try it with yoghurt and granola, or even on a pavlova for a larger dessert.
Speaking of dessert, our second recipe returns to a classic. Black Forest gateau traces its roots to 1920s Germany and calls for chocolate sponge soaked in cherry liqueur or kirsch. Cake baking can often call for complicated equipment, so I have used a standard loaf tin to reduce the hassle. Cherry compote and fresh cherries bring the summer sunshine. This is a perfect dish to prepare in advance and keep in the fridge for a few hours, the soaking time will add to the finished result. Enjoy.
