The period between Christmas and new year is often a bit of a zombie zone for restaurants, with many taking a few days off after the busiest period of the year. That doesn’t mean all is lost for diners who do their “Twixmas” homework, however, with some special experiences still on the table.
One top option in the capital comes courtesy of wild goose chef Sam Kindillon, who has returned to his native Dublin after more than a decade cooking in Copenhagen and Berlin.
With the support of former mentor John Wyer, Kindillon will take over the kitchen at Forest Avenue in Leeson Street between December 30th and January 10th for a total of nine services.
Diners can expect a modern pescatarian or vegetarian six-course menu, including bread and snacks with a sharing main course, for around the €80 mark.
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“I didn’t get to cook a lot of fish in Berlin, and I’m keen to get stuck in with this menu,” says Kindillon, who has most recently been acting head chef at Note Dublin and will be remembered from his time in The Pigeon House, Clontarf.
Kindillon says Berlin, where he was head chef at brasserie-style Ora, isn’t as vibrant as Dublin. He now sees his career progressing back at home.
“[Berlin is] a great city, but customers are reluctant to spend money on casual fine dining, while trade during the summer months is harder as Berliners prefer to sit outside with their beers and therefore eat more casually,” Kindillon says.
He speaks proudly of the success of his friends and peer chefs who have walked similar paths such as Cúán Greene, formerly of Bastible and the founder of Ómós, and Kevin O’Donnell, head chef at Comet, both of whom worked at a high level abroad for a period.
Kindillon’s move to cook over the Christmas period will surely be welcomed by those who will be glad to get back into restaurants after the big day. Happily, there will be other options too.
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Restaurants in hotels are always a good choice for dining out after Christmas as they often remain open for residents. In Galway, the Pullman Restaurant (which is set in two former carriages from the Orient Express) at Glenlo Abbey will be open for dinner, as will the stunning Michelin-starred Morrison Room at Carton House, Maynooth, Co Kildare, and The Bishop’s Buttery in Cashel Palace Hotel, Co Tipperary.
Casual dining also works well, as offered by the buzzy Bodega restaurant and wine bar in Waterford City, or the smart Balfe’s in the Westbury Hotel in Dublin, which will be open for brunch and dinner. Also in Dublin, Bar Italia will be open throughout Christmas except for the Christmas Day and St Stephen’s Day, while Two Pups and Notions on Francis Street will be open from the 27th. In Glasnevin, the Washerwoman and Little Washer will be open from the same date.
Around the country, many local restaurants will be welcoming back their regular customers. Fish & Bean in Sligo reopens on the 27th, while Everett’s in Waterford and Square in Dundalk, Co Louth, will be open from the 28th. The beautiful Homestead Cottage in Doolin, Co Clare, will also be an option, as will Wine & Brine in Moira, Co Armagh, well known for its game cooking at this time of year. It reopens on December 27th.
