Wines to conjure up memories of summer in a glass

John Wilson: Pet Nat are great thirst-quenching wines, best served well chilled

For a white to rekindle memories of summer, what could be more suggestive than a Greek wine?
For a white to rekindle memories of summer, what could be more suggestive than a Greek wine?

Pet Nat has been having a moment for the last decade or so. Basically, it is wine bottled before the primary fermentation has finished. As fermentation gives off carbon dioxide, the wine will be lightly sparkling. It can be red, white or rosé. It is often bottled unfiltered, so it can be cloudy. It tends to be low in alcohol, low in sugar and high in acidity.

Pet Nat (short for Pétillant Naturel), such as the Jousset “Exile” featured here, are great thirst-quenching wines, best served well chilled. Think of them as edgy Champagne or cool Prosecco (although wines labelled Col Fondo are funky Pet Nat-style Proseccos).

For a white to rekindle memories of summer, what could be more suggestive than a Greek wine? For a real treat, O’Briens has one of my all-time favourites, the Gaia Wild Ferment Assyrtiko (€32). But the Greek wine from Aldi featured here, costing under a tenner, is also well worth trying.

On to Beaujolais, which now appears to be enjoying a genuine revival. As Burgundy increases in price, Beaujolais (and here I really mean Beaujolais Villages and the 10 crus such as Fleurie, Morgon, Brouilly, Moulin-à-Vent) offers excellent wine at affordable prices. The grape variety is completely different but for Francophiles they do offer a great alternative to Burgundy. There is an expanding group of really good young producers in the region making some very exciting wines, such as the Grégoire Hoppenot Fleurie featured here.

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For many, Malbec and Argentina are one and the same thing. However, Argentina produces plenty of other very good wine. Most Bonarda is unoaked and offers a burst of refreshing plum fruits, good acidity, low alcohol and light tannins. Not unlike a Beaujolais, in fact. The Altos Las Hormigas included here is a perfect example.

Assyrtiko 2020, Filos Estate, Florina, Greece

13%, €9.99

This offers great value for money. Rich fruits, orange peel, peaches and pears balanced nicely by some citrus acidity. Go local with a Greek salad, calamari or a chicken in a lemony avgolemono sauce.

From Aldi

Altos Las Hormigas ‘Colonia Las Liebres’ Mendoza Bonarda Clasica 2020 (Organic)

13%, €18.99

Lovely, clean, fresh crunchy plum and dark cherry fruits; perfect with slightly fatty pork dishes, or as a lighter partner with barbecued food.

From Barnhill Stores, Dalkey; Power & Co, Lucan; wineonline.ie; Thomas Woodberry, Galway

Domaine Jousset ‘Exile’ Rosé Pétillant NV, Vin de France

12%, €26.60

Made from the Gamay grape, this is a mouth-watering, lightly sparkling rosé. Crisp, bone dry with a cascade of refreshing acidity and light alpine strawberry and redcurrant fruits.

From winesdirect.ie, Mullingar

Domaine Grégoire Hoppenot Fleurie ‘Indigène’ 2020

12.5%, €32.99

Fragrant and seductive with a lovely freshness throughout and a real concentration of red cherry fruits and nice grip on the finish. Serve lightly chilled with a thick slab of terrine, pâté and other charcuterie.

From Alain and Christine’s Wine Shop, Kenmare; 1601, Kinsale; Redmond’s, D6; Manning’s Emporium, Ballylickey; wineonline.ie