We Irish love Chilean wines. We drink more of them than any other wine. Figures for 2023 show that Chile has more than 25 per cent of the market here with sales of more than 28 million bottles, dwarfing our second favourite, Spain, which has 13.5 per cent of the market. You might think that this would make Chilean producers very happy but talk to any export manager and they will sigh, frustrated that when we decide to trade up a bit, we move away from Chile to other countries. This is a little unfair as Chile makes some excellent premium wines.
Over the past two decades Chilean producers have expanded out from the Central Valley, where most of the inexpensive wines come from, into new regions, with very exciting results. Areas to watch out for include Casablanca, Limari, Leyda, San Antonio, Elqui, Bío-Bío, Colchaqua. At the same time, some have rediscovered high-quality, older vineyards in diverse areas such as Maipo and Itata. There are some great wines, but by their nature they tend to cost a little more.
The deadly Phylloxera aphid wiped out most of the world’s vineyards in the late 19th century. Since then, all vines are grafted on to resistant American rootstocks. The aphid never made it to Chile, so while new vines are grafted, older vines are not, providing producers with a unique resource.
De Martino, one of the most innovative wine producers in Chile, produce a range of single vineyard wines, all produced from ungrafted vines. I include the Cinsault and Cabernet below. Montes has been to the fore in the search for cooler regions such as Zapallar, and Viña Leyda pioneered the Leyda Valley.
Viña Leyda Coastal Vineyards Las Brisas Pinot Noir 2022
13%, €15.95 down from €18.95
Floral aromas with tart, bright red cherry and plum fruits overlaid with herbs. Perfect with salmon, tuna or duck.
From O’Briens
Montes Outer Limits Sauvignon Blanc 2024 D.O. Zapallar
13.5% €24-€26
Green herbaceous, vivid grapefruit zest, mango and peach with a lively acidity. A stylish wine with real character. Try it solo or with salmon and dill.
The Corkscrew, D1; Cooper’s, Cahir; Baggot Street Wines; wineonline.ie
De Martino Ungrafted Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
13%, €23.99
Classic cabernet with smooth, slightly earthy blackcurrant fruits and a lightly tannic spicy finish. Serve this with roast red meats or firm cheeses.
From Bradley’s, Cork; Higgins, D14; Martins, D3; Donnybrook Fair; Avoca; The Vintry, D6
De Martino Ungrafted Old Vines Cinsault 2024, Itata
13.5%, €23.99
Delicious free-flowing fresh juicy wine with a savoury touch, and succulent, lively dark cherry fruits. Enjoy it with grilled pork or chicken dishes.
From Higgins, D14; Avoca; Donnybrook Fair
