Chenin blanc is the flagship white grape variety of South Africa (covered here last week. Pinotage is probably the red equivalent, but it isn’t nearly as popular, covering just 6 per cent of the vineyard area, and the wines can sometimes fall into the Marmite category; you either love them or you don’t. The most famous pinotage is the uncompromising, full-on structured Kanonkop (€45-€50, independents), and its baby brother, Kadette (€20), both worth trying at least once.
However, South Africa has a wide variety of red grapes. Cabernet sauvignon is the most widely planted, at 11 per cent, followed closely by syrah with 10 per cent. Perhaps unsurprisingly, these two varieties showed best in my tastings, so I feature both this week. I also tried some excellent pinot noirs and will return to them at another date. In the meantime, look out for Hamilton Russell, Bouchard Finlayson, Restless River and Kershaw.
The best-known wine regions of South Africa include Stellenbosch, Constantia and Franschhoek, but recent interest has focused on cooler areas such as Elgin and Walker Bay, both a source of good pinot and sauvignon blanc. More recently a new generation of adventurous winemakers has headed to Swartland and Olifants River, where they make some very exciting wines using old vine chenin blanc, cinsault, and other Rhône varieties, including syrah.
Lidl Stellenbosch Handcrafted Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2023
13.5%, €9.99
This comes in a very heavy bottle. The Bordeaux blend is rich in blackcurrant and ripe plum fruits, with a touch of vanilla and a spicy dry finish. A good budget option for your Easter celebration or with a rare steak.
From Lidl
Groot Constantia Estate Lady of Abundance 2020, Constantia
14%, €25
Full-bodied and smooth with ripe cassis, toasted almonds and dark chocolate. Try it with roast lamb, or mushrooms on toast.
From Whelehan’s, Loughlinstown, whelehanswines.ie
Kloof Street 2022, Chis & Andrea Mullineux, Swartland
14%, €25.95
Velvety, supple, ripe, dark fruits with a peppery note and a smooth finish. This would go with a wide variety of cheeses and red or white meat dishes.
From RainbowNationWines.ie; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Mannings, Ballylickey; Higgins, D14
Kershaw Clonal Selection Syrah 2019, Elgin
14%, €60
A wonderful fragrant, elegant syrah with black pepper, ripe dark plums and supple, well-integrated tannins. This would go very nicely with roast peppers, Comté or venison.
From Blackrock Cellar; 64Wine, Glasthule
