Full-bodied and hedonistic: welcome to wines from Ribera del Duero

The Spanish region was barely known as a wine producer as recently as three decades ago - look at it now

John Wilson 27th September
Ribera del Duero wines are perfect to drink with roast meat or roast aubergine and red peppers.

Few wine regions have shot to stardom with the speed of Ribera del Duero. As recently as 30 years ago, this region in the north of Spain was completely unknown to the world of wine, with one exception; it was home to Vega Sicilia, Spain’s most sought-after wine. Back then it was labelled simply as a humble vino de mesa, or table wine. There were a few other wineries producing simple table wines. Today, it rivals Rioja as Spain’s greatest wine region, usually with prices to match.

The breakthrough came when local boy made good, Alejandro Fernandez, decided to bottle a 100 per cent tempranillo, known in the region as tinto fino or tinto del país, called Pesquera. Influential American wine critic Robert Parker called it “the Petrus of Spain”. A few years later, talented Danish winemaker Peter Sisseck released Pingus, a sumptuous wine that now sells for eye-watering sums. This led to a land rush, with every farmer or investor planting vineyards and building massive wineries. There are now more than 300 wineries in Ribera del Duero.

Ribera del Duero is a two-hour drive north of Madrid. Situated on a high plateau of 600-800 metres, during the short growing season, daytime temperatures are very hot, while nights can be very cold. This produces very ripe grapes full of colour, flavour and acidity. This, along with their local clone of tempranillo (and some merlot and cabernet), results in hedonistic and full-bodied wines, perfect to drink alongside the local speciality of roast lamb, any other red meat, or roast aubergine and red peppers.

John Wilson WINE IMAGES MAGAZINE 27TH SEPT
Specially Selected Baron Amarillo Ribera del Duero 2024

Specially Selected Baron Amarillo Ribera del Duero 2024

13.5%, €11.99

Medium-bodied with clean plum fruits and good acidity, finishing on a nicely rounded note. Aldi

John Wilson WINE IMAGES MAGAZINE 27TH SEPT
Abadia de Acón Ribera del Duero Joven 2023

Abadia de Acón Ribera del Duero Joven 2023

14.5%, €18

Delicious bright juicy ripe dark fruits. No oak, no tannins, just gorgeous fruit. Dangerously moreish.

Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 2; 64 Wine, Glasthule, Do Dublin; BaRossa Wines, Dublin 4; Thenudewineco.ie; Clontarf Wines, Dublin 3; Redmond’s, Dublin 6

John Wilson WINE IMAGES MAGAZINE 27TH SEPT
Bohórquez MMII 2018 Reserva Ribera del Duero

Bohórquez MMII 2018 Reserva Ribera del Duero

14%, €39.95

A very seductive satin-smooth elegant wine with cassis, ripe dark cherries, dark chocolate and subtle oak. Great wine. Theallotment.ie

John Wilson WINE IMAGES MAGAZINE 27TH SEPT
Quinta Milú Viñas Viejas 2021, Ribera del Duero

Quinta Milú Viñas Viejas 2021, Ribera del Duero

14.5%, €42

Wonderful pure blue and black fruits with an attractive freshness, and a lovely long finish.

Thenudewineco.ie; Green Man Wines, Dublin 6; Pinto Wines, Dublin 9