A group of four small wine importers come together every autumn to hold a tasting known as SPIT. This was their 10th year. As all four major on different countries and import some of the finest wines, it is an unmissable event. Sadly, they are no longer able to open it to the public. Here, I’ve chosen one wine from each importer.
Artuke is small producer based in Rioja Alavesa, the Basque part of Rioja. It was founded in 1991 and is now run by brothers Arturo and Kike de Miguel. Using grapes grown on old bush vines, they produce atypical Rioja that is more about the fruit and less the oak. This is one of my favourite producers.
The Languedoc is huge, producing about a third of all French wine, more than all of Australia. Unsurprisingly there are some very large producers making inexpensive wine. Land is relatively cheap, so ambitious younger winemakers can often afford to start off here. The result is some great artisan wines that can offer great value. Mas des Agrunelles is one such estate. It is the work of Stéphanie Ponson and Frédéric Porro, who met while studying winemaking in nearby Montpellier University.
The Breuer estate, run by Theresa Breuer, has holdings in some of the greatest vineyards of Germany. The wine below is made of a blend of different vineyards of Rüdesheim in the Rheingau.
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Chianti Classico varies in style from powerful and full-bodied to light and elegant. The Montesecondo is in the refined camp but none the worse for that. This was a new discovery for me. I tried three of these wines at the SPIT tasting and was struggling for superlatives.
Pies Negros Rioja 2023 Bodegas Artuke
14%, €24
Vibrant and fragrant with delicious dark cherry fruits, a refreshing mineral core and some firm tannins on the finish. Enjoy it with lamb cutlets or herby pork chops.
Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 2; 64 Wine, Glasthule, Co Dublin; Pinto Wines, Dublin 9; Brindle, Dublin 8; Sweeney’s, Dublin 3
Mas des Agrunelles Nicot 2022, Languedoc, Biodynamic
13.5%, €29.50
A medium-bodied wine packed with cassis and raspberry fruits, some dried herbs and some well-integrated tannins on the finish.
Lilith, Dublin 7; 64 Wine, Glasthule, Co Dublin; Drinkstore, Dublin 7; Blackrock Cellar, Co Dublin; Green Man, Dublin 6
Georg Breuer Estate Rudesheim Riesling Trocken, Rheingau
11.5%, €37
Mouthwatering citrus acidity, peaches and red apples with a touch of honey. Try it with smoked salmon, pâtés, or grilled mackerel.
TheAllotment.ie; Redmonds, Dublin 6; Green Man, Dublin 6; Lilith, Dublin 7; Clontarf Wines, Dublin 3
Montesecondo Chianti Classico 2022 Organic
13%, €35.50
A delectable, elegant wine full of ripe raspberries balanced by a lively mineral backbone, an earthy touch and great length.
Sheridan’s Cheesemongers, various locations; MacCurtain Wine Cellar, Cork
