I may be jumping the gun a little but after all that rain, I need the promise of spring and, as I write, the sun has made a welcome reappearance. I tend to drink lighter red wines throughout the year, but they are even more welcome in brighter weather.
Gamay, pinot noir and cabernet franc are three of my favourite grapes, so it is not surprising that I have always been a huge fan of the red wines of the Loire. However, I realise that I may be in a minority. This could possibly be because they are light in colour and alcohol and could sometimes be a little herbaceous in the past, making them easier to ignore. Yet the rise in temperature due to climate change and our growing preference for lighter wines mean that these wines should now be right on trend.
Pinot noir from the Loire certainly seems to have benefited a little from global warming. Most examples are now deliciously ripe and fruity and offer a real alternative to red Burgundy. Sancerre produces the best-known pinot noir, but other areas can compete and are often less expensive.
Cabernet franc plays a supporting role in most great Bordeaux, particularly on the Right Bank. In the Loire, it produces lighter ethereal wines with real elegance and fresh red summer fruits. The better wines age wonderfully too. I adore them. Chinon, Anjou, Saumur, Saumur-Champigny, Touraine, Bourgueil, and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil all produce high-quality wines.
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Another Burgundian(ish) grape is gamay, the mainstay of all Beaujolais. It can perform very well in the Loire too, as can malbec (known as côt here).
Whelehan’s, Terroirs, and Lecaveau.ie all have a good selection if you want to try out a few more wines.
La Petite Perrière Pinot Noir 2024 Vin de France
13%, €10 down from €12.79
Soft ripe raspberry and red cherry fruits. Great value at €10. Serve it cool with tuna, salmon, ham or summery salads.
From SuperValu
Touraine Les Griottines 2024, Gamay, Domaine des Corbillières
11%, €18.85
A delicious light refreshing red with vibrant red cherry and redcurrant fruits. This would go nicely with a plate of mixed cheese and charcuterie.
From Wines Direct, Mullingar and Athlone, Co Westmeath and Winesdirect.ie
Les Roullères 2023, Frédéric Mabileau, Saint Nicolas-de-Bourgueil
12%, €25
Textbook cabernet franc. Light, juicy and moreish with snappy red cherry fruits and a light earthiness. Drink solo or with aubergines, grilled pork or salmon.
From Whelehans, Loughlinstown, Co Dublin
Saumur Les Moulins 2024, Chai de la Dive
12%, €26.50
A lovely classic cabernet franc with redcurrants, dark cherries, thyme and black pepper. Try it with roast chicken or charcuterie.
From Terroirs, Dublin 4, and Terroirs.ie
