I’ve seen a lot of references to Noma this week. Why?
Yes, there have been a lot of headlines, and not of the good kind. The storied Copenhagen restaurant was all set to commence a very fancy four-month pop-up in Los Angeles (LA) a few days ago when mass attention suddenly diverted to its head chef and co-founder, René Redzepi. From then on, everything became more than a little sour.
Why did that happen?
Allegations that the acclaimed chef had physically abused his staff had been circulating on social media for a while, but the LA pop-up (and its $1,500 tickets) added considerable oxygen to the stories. Last weekend, The New York Times took it on, detailing a series of allegations of past physical and pyschological abuse of people who had worked for Redzepi.
What kind of allegations?
Very unpleasant ones, including claims of punching employees in the face and slamming them against walls. “Going to work felt like going to war,” one former employee told The New York Times. Aside from the many other news reports the investigation spawned, the pop-up location in LA was targeted by protesters holding signs with slogans such as “No Michelin stars for violence”. Noma held three stars before Redzepi decided in 2023 to close the restaurant as a conventional venue and focus instead on innovations, including the global pop-ups.
What was the reaction on the ground?
Some financial sponsors were not happy, cutting ties with the pop-up just before it started. These included American Express.
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So did Redzepi have anything to say?
On a few occasions before now, he has expressed regret about past behaviours. He also provided The New York Times with a statement for last week’s article, saying to “those who have suffered under my leadership, my bad judgment, or my anger” that he was “deeply sorry”. He said he had undergone therapy and “found better ways to manage my anger”.
Did that draw a veil over the matter?
No. On Wednesday evening, after the sponsor exit, Redzepi said he was resigning from Noma. “I’ve decided to step away and allow our extraordinary leaders to now guide the restaurant into its next chapter,” he said on Instagram. He had “worked to be a better leader and Noma has taken big steps to transform the culture over many years”, he added. “I recognise these changes do not repair the past. An apology is not enough; I take responsibility for my own actions.” The LA pop-up will now continue under Noma’s team.
So that’s that?
Well, maybe, or maybe not. The extremely painful allegations detailed by The New York Times have spawned a wider, public conversation about staff treatment in restaurants, particularly at the higher end of what has become a global sector. The end point of this is as yet unclear.
