Bargains are bargains but sometimes it's nice to splash out just a little, writes Mary Dowey
Over the past month or two I have focused mainly on inexpensive wines - the shorts and T-shirts of summer drinking. But maybe every so often you feel the need for something a bit smarter - the wine equivalent of an elegant, floaty dress or a well-tailored linen suit? Drinking well is a good deal cheaper than dressing well, thank goodness. Here are my latest delectable discoveries, all under €20.
WHITE
BOTTLE OF THE WEEK
The Crossings Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2003. If you feel that New Zealand Sauvignon is inclined to have too much upfront, super-aromatic fruit, try this subtle, zesty version from a recently established winery in Marlborough's cool Awatere Valley. With crisp notes of apple and lime, it's a class act - lively, lingering and wonderfully palate-cleansing. From No 1 Vintage, Goatstown; Hogans, Rathfarnham; McCabes at Gables, Foxrock; Nolans, Clontarf; Bennetts, Howth; Grape Escape,Lucan; Mill, Maynooth; Cheers at Laurels, Perrystown and others, €14.59-€14.99.
José Pariente Variedal Verdejo, Rueda, Bodegas Dos Victorias 2003. Looking for a summer wine that oozes personality? This terrific example of the white grape Verdejo from Rueda, Spain's most promising white-wine region, delivers tantalising aromas of elderflower and lime, then a burst of exuberant, juicy fruit and a long, dry finish. It seems that the winemakers, both called Victoria, have personalities to match. Try this with a salad or seafood. From Wines Direct, €12.75.
Grant Burge Kraft Sauvignon Blanc, Barossa 2003. Australia's warm Barossa Valley isn't associated with stylish Sauvignon Blanc, since the grape craves coolness. But this single vineyard example from clever winemaker Grant Burge is exceptional - combining smooth tropical fruit flavours with plenty of zing. From Corkscrew, Chatham St; Deveneys, Dundrum; Kellys, Clontarf; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Village, Swords; Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Wine World, Dungarvan; Macs, Limerick; Vineyard, Galway, about €13.99.
I Feudi di Romans Pinot Grigio Isonzo del Friuli 2003. This is what I'd call a serious Pinot Grigio rather than a light and forgettable wine-bar quaffer. It has lovely intensity of flavour, with greengage and almond tones perked up by citrussy freshness. Made for antipasti or any light first course. From McCabes at Vaults, Harcourt St, Gables Foxrock and Mount Merrion; Michael's Wines, Mount Merrion; www.eWine.ie, about €15.95.
Domaine de Riaux Pouilly-sur-Loire 2003. Here's a wine that knocks spots off plenty of Pouilly-Fumés. Although it has the same grass and green-gooseberry characteristics as its grand Sauvignon-based rival, it is made from Chasselas, a humble grape that's a speciality of Pouilly-sur-Loire. This producer proves how attractive it can be. From Ryan Vine, Navan, or direct from River Wines, 021-4293393, about €13.99.
Lawson's Dry Hills Marlborough Riesling 2003. Another New Zealand winner from Marlborough pioneers (and screwcap champions) Ross and Barbara Lawson. Still young, this smart Riesling doesn't give much away in aroma but it tastes a treat - citrussy, balanced and supremely appetising. Good as an apéritif or with light first courses. (If there's an Asian twist, so much the better.) From Corkscrew, Chatham St; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Dwans, Knocklyon; Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Russells Next Door, Limerick; Kingdom, Tralee and others, about €16.99.
Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, Merlin 2001. Mâcon may not be one of Burgundy's poshest appellations, but make no mistake - this is a wonderfully posh wine. From quality-obsessed producer Olivier Merlin, it's fabulously ripe and creamy-rich with hints of lemons, oranges and honey, yet well-judged acidity leaves you craving another mouthful . . . and another. Enjoy with roast chicken. From Vaults, Harcourt St; Martha's Vineyard, Rathfarnham; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Gaffneys, Ballina & Castlebar; Vineyard, Galway, about €18.50
De Bortoli Gulf Station Riesling, Yarra Valley 2001. This aristocratic Aussie Riesling would sit well on any summer dinner party table (especially if you are starting with seafood, or something vaguely oriental). A couple of years of bottle age have allowed it to develop classic layers of Riesling character - petrolly, pineappley, mineral - with a reviving cut of lemon in a long finish. From Red Island, Skerries; Vintage, Tullamore; Russells Next Door, Limerick; Kingdom, Tralee and others, about €18.99.
ROSÉ
Domaine de la Janasse Rosé, Côtes du Rhône 2003. From a producer based near Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this is Côtes du Rhône rosé at its best - full-bodied and assertive without being over-the-top. You'll pick up enticing hints of raspberries, marshmallow and herbs - and then ask for a refill. Goes brilliantly with all sorts of summer foods, and it's a ravishing shade of pink. Make an impact and serve it all evening. From Drinks Store, Manor St; Redmonds, Ranelagh; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Mill, Maynooth; Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Vineyard, Galway, about €11.95.
Redoma Douro Rosé, Niepoort 2001. From leading port producer Dirk Niepoort, this has even more body, even more thrust, taking it somewhere close to red wine in style. Don't be concerned that it's a few years old when most rosé is drunk young: with a touch of oak, this one is built to last. Perfect for barbecued food or an Indian takeaway. From Wicklow Wine Co; Michael's Wines, Mount Merrion; Red Island, Skerries; Grape Escape, Lucan; Probus, Oughterard; Harvest, Galway; Cabots, Westport and others, about €13.95.
Sançerre Rosé, Rémy Vincent 2003. The opposite end of the pink spectrum. Made from Pinot Noir, this delicate Loire rosé is pale salmon in colour - and poached salmon or sea trout would be the very thing to savour with it. Although delicate in style, its subtle, refreshing flavours are wonderfully persistent. From Oddbins, €16.99
RED
BOTTLE OF THE WEEK
D'Arenberg The High Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale-Coonawarra 2000/1. This is the kind of wine I love serving to people who complain that Australian reds are big fat fruit bombs with no finesse, in a brown paper bag, if possible - just to stump them. It's very suave, very subtle, with hints of mint, leather and tobacco which linger intriguingly. From Carvills, Camden St; Sweeneys, Dorset St; McHughs, Kilbarrack; Martins, Fairview; Vintry, Rathgar; Wicklow Wine Co; Eldons, Clonmel; Blessings, Cavan; Fahys, Ballina and many others, €14.99.
Dom Martinho Vinho Regional Alentejano, Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) 2001. This rich, spicy beauty is a pedigree Portuguese red. The second wine of acclaimed Quinta do Carmo, it combines savoury, peppery grip with an appealing earthiness. An excellent buy at this price - to drink soonish, alongside something meaty. From O'Briens, €12.99
Martín Berdugo Barrica Ribera del Duero 2002. From a prestige region, this is a finely tuned wine offering great value. Smooth and plummy with fine tannins, it's layered and lively, finishing with a peppery flourish. From selected Next Doors; Searsons, Monkstown; Country Choice, Nenagh; Herans, Boyle; Patrick Stewart, Sligo; Galway Wine Co and others, €14.95.
Classico Superiore, Musella 2000. Forgot those young, light, fruity Valpols that most people treat with suspicion. This one has gravitas - and gorgeous flavours of baked cherries and spice, as well as a refreshing tang. A really tempting, versatile summer red. From Oddbins, 14.99.
Catena Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza 2001. Argentine producer Catena Zapata has invested a ton of money and a decade of effort in pursuit of quality. This polished Cabernet suggests it is paying off. There is a welcome streak of minerality beneath the plush fruit, and a firm, savoury core. From O'Briens; Corks, Terenure; Martha's Vineyard, Rathfarnham; Bradys, Shankill; Cheers, Delgany; Chester Beatty, Ashford and others, about €18.50.
Chatsfield Shiraz, Mount Barker 2001. A new Shiraz vintage from this impressive Western Australian company. Again it's smashing, with strikingly pure flavours - black fruits, liquorice, pepper. From Mitchell & Son, Kildare St & Glasthule; Brechin Watchorn, Ranelagh; Andersons, Glasnevin; Grape Escape, Lucan; Vine Inspiration, Enniscorthy; World Wide Wines, Waterford; Patrick Stewart, Sligo; Gaffneys, Ballina & Castlebar, about €18.95.
Santa Duc Gigondas Les Garancières 2001. Yves Gras is one of the front-runners in Gigondas, and this fleshy, vibrant wine does justice to his reputation. There's a lot of substance here, with hints of leather and tar alongside rich fruit and integrated oak. From Le Caveau, Kilkenny, €19.95.
Cantine Leonardo Chianti Riserva 2000. A good deal of decent Chianti has become indecently expensive, but this is a super wine for just under 20. It's rich, raisiny and lingering, with a chewy finish but a touch of hedonism. From Mill Maynooth; O'Donovans outlets, Cork; www.eWine.ie, about €19.95.
Côte de Nuits-Villages, Jean-Marc Millot 2000. I felt crestfallen when this bottle was finished. It's affordable red Burgundy at its most alluring - lively on the palate, with gamey hints mingling among layers of sweet red fruit and gentle spice. Fantastic. Throw a dinner party right away just to try it. From Cabot & Co, IFSC; On the Grapevine, Dalkey, about €19.99.