Fragrance shouldn’t be limited to categories like “daytime” and “evening”. As the people you pass on the street start to reflect the coming of winter in their wardrobes, the crisp, bright and zesty fragrances of summer start to jar. A whiff of zingy citrus from someone in October can feel almost mocking; a cruel whisper of the summer we’ve lost.
One aspect of winter that can make it lovely is its tendency to liberate – crispy feet can be stowed away in winter boots, and fussy summer grooming can be relinquished in favour of a cosier, more relaxed routine. You can also get away with a lot more. Deeper hues on lips and eyes, and heavier fragrances are completely appropriate for a wintry day.
Several fragrance brands are inverting the classic evening scent in the name of androgyny, creating fragrances that transcend gender-based expectation. What results are fragrances that defy expectation, are delightfully confusing – familiar, and yet strange, and they can be worn by anyone. If you’re on the hunt for a winter fragrance with that something special, there are several worth trying. Since the same fragrance can smell different on everyone, be sure to head in store and spritz your chosen scent on to your skin. After a day’s wear, you’ll know how it behaves on your skin as well as how lasting it is, so you’re more likely to make a sound investment with no regrets.
Marc Jacobs Decadence (from €62.20) is simultaneously delightful and bizarre. It earns its name with what can only be described as hyper-extravagant packaging. The lid is as large as the bottle, and features a thick gold chain and tassel. If you can get over that, plum, iris, saffron, rose, amber, vetiver, papyrus woods create an intoxicating scent that will register as masculine, then soften down to have a warm, fruity undertone. It would sit happily on a man or a woman, but isn't for the faint hearted. Or nosed.
Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium (from €48) is an iteration of the brand's classic Opium fragrance, and mirrors the originals richness. Blackcurrant, pear, mandarin peel, jasmine and orange blossom make it a deeply feminine fragrance, but the addition of coffee bean lingers in the air like a question mark, giving the fragrance an edgy bite that makes it special.
Jo Malone London Mimosa and Cardamom (from €52) is a softer androgynous fragrance that leans more toward the feminine side. Mimosa and tonka bean are rich and round, while the top note of cardamom adds spice. This is warm enough for summer, with a depth that lends itself to winter weather.
For fragrance collectors and enthusiasts, there is Armani Privé Rose D'Arabie (€300 exclusively at Brown Thomas Dublin and Cork). The packaging is something special – available in a limited edition until Christmas, the bottle is encrusted with Swarovski crystals.
Rose – traditionally a men’s fragrance in the Middle East, is layered with saffron, orange blossom, wood and oud for a fantastically rich and interesting fragrance.
lkennedy@irishtimes.com
