What male politicians wear doesn’t usually make headlines. Louis Copeland, a sharp man when it comes to discussions of sartorial style and men’s suits, points to the fact that President Trump wears European: classic, “no brainer” Brioni suits and overcoats and “you can wear a dark navy suit for the rest of your life and nobody will notice”.
His red and blue ties, however, let him down. “Too flashy”, Copeland says, and reminiscent of the sort worn to Irish weddings 20 years ago. A more classic tie would look much better, “but that’s him, he doesn’t conform”.
Obama also wore commanding well tailored dark suits (with the notable exception of the tan one that scandalised Washington two years ago), and good overcoats. His taste was for Canali, another Italian brand and one that Copeland has been selling in Ireland for nearly 30 years.
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“Many of the big brands spend 90 per cent on marketing and 10 per cent on the clothes – with Canali it is the other way round – 99 per cent on clothes and 1 per cent on marketing. And they use the proper canvas interlining rather than fusing, so they are made in the old fashioned way and will look like new after 20 years”.
Leaving US politicians aside, Copeland reckons that men in general are becoming more adventurous with colour and style and starting to dress up a lot more. There is a new appreciation of jackets with semi-formal shirts that can be worn with or without a tie.
Canali is still number one when it comes to suits, however, and Conor McGregor’s dapper, sartorial style one of the most influential on younger men. Navy and charcoal may still be the gold standards for suits, but coloured up with shirts, ties and pocket squares.
Five years ago, observes Copeland, casual trousers were mostly confined to grey and navy; now shades such as purple, wine, rust and khaki are accessible and don’t frighten the horses. There has also been a revival of interest by grooms in having a suit made to measure for their nuptials.
In these shots taken by Daniel Holfeld on Inis Oir, city suits and casual wear take to the rugged west of Ireland. The rugged island background is a perfect foil not only for a tweed combo, but for blazers and smart trousers, showing how so many items transcend seasons and locations and look cool, such as Barbour jackets and Aquascutum mackintoshes. Note how to style a blazer with knit, cords, cravat and pocket square for maximum effect.
As the sale season finally draws to a close, keen bargain hunters will notice some star buys in Louis Copeland: Canali overcoats and blazers at half price, a Ted Baker coat and quilted Colmar down jacket reduced by more than €200 and a great pair of burgundy trousers by MMX for €94.50.
Photographs: Daniel Holfeld. Model: Richard at 1st Option
