PHYL CLARKEdiscusses the world of clothes
Bargain hunters with pre-spring frugality in mind should head to a new boutique in Ranelagh (opposite the Luas) called Deja Vu, where owner Mary McNulty has raised the bar of what she prefers to call “gently worn”, as opposed to second-hand, clothes.
Her line-up includes some good buys, many never worn, such as a pastel tweed coat by Marc Jacobs for €290, a foxy flared 1950s-style Andy Warhol print dress (size 10) for €90, and a colourful sweater by Save the Queen for €60.
The day I visited she had a black skirt with side lacings by Alexander McQueen, for €50. The shop also has shoes (Miu Miu, Prada and others) hats, jewellery and other accessories. McNulty will accept “gently worn” or unworn designer labels for sale, but they must be in top condition.
Deja Vu, 4 Ranelagh, Dublin 6; 087-61878241
A FRIEND recently asked me to recommend the easiest, “least scary” eyeliner, and she was keen to avoid making an expensive mistake. She does not usually wear colour on her eyelids but, for a special occasion, I’ve managed to steer her towards Bobbi Brown’s Long-Wear Cream Shadow, the perfect starting point for the eye make-up virgin. These low-key shades offer a whisper of flattering colours that are so safe they can even be applied with your finger.
But back to liner, which is often overlooked as a key ingredient in make-up. It can be worn in a number of ways, either as part of the supporting cast or taking centre stage. Professional make-up artists stress its importance, especially as the years roll on and features soften and lose definition.
Liner comes in several textures resulting in different effects, so you don’t need to invest in a liquid black that requires lots of experience, a steady hand and a penchant for an upward flick at the outer corner of the eye. Black is for the lining maestro because the stark contrast with skin shows up imperfections in the application. It can also look harsh if you’re over a certain age. Instead, choose a forgiving shade such as grey, brown, khaki or plum. When you opt for a pencil instead of a liquid, the entire procedure takes on a distinctly achievable air.
Invest in a double-sided magnifying mirror, and put it in front of a window. Apply liner using the magnifying side, which gives a precision edge. Start at the outward corner of the eye and draw a line as close to the upper lashes as you can, stopping just before the inner corner. The line should be thickest at the outside where you’ve started, gradually thinning as you move inward. If you find it daunting to complete it in one go, then don’t. Instead, use two or three strokes but keep to the outward-corner-in rule. You might be happy with the line as drawn or you could thicken the outside third for more definition. It’s a matter of choice whether you line below the eye. I like it as it gives a more complete finish, but the application is different from that of the top lid. You still apply from the outside in but this time in a thin line that graduates to nothing by mid pupil. Go any further and you risk the “doll eye” effect.
For maximum definition, leave the line as is. For a softer, more smoky effect, smudge it with a smudger or cotton bud. Using a lighter shade of pencil and then smudging will give the most subtle effect. Soft pencils with a creamy or kajal formula are easiest to apply.
Rimmel Soft Kohl Kajal eye pencil (€4.53) is great value and super soft. The Jungle Green shade is a terrific teal, which is not too bright. Chanel Stylo Yeux (€20) resists water and humidity. The ease of application, retractable tip and integrated sharpener justify the extra few bob. The Marine shade is a beautiful blue-grey that is flattering to blue eyes.
Elizabeth Arden’s Smoky Eyes Powder Pencil (€17) has a soft powder finish and a built-in smudger tip for subtle smoky eyes. The Espresso shade is a delicious rich brown.
Clinique Cream Shaper (€15) is a creamy-smooth pencil that defines with a hint of shimmer. The Brown Sugar shade is a light brown with a gold pearl finish.
You have to hand it to Ciara Donlon, who quit a lucrative job in corporate sales to open a lingerie shop called Cupcakes, which made its debut in Ranelagh just before Christmas. Her new boutique specialises in maternity and nursing wear and larger cup sizes – up to 40H from 30A.
Having fastened on to the idea, so to speak, she did a bra-fitting course in the UK, followed by a retail lingerie course, and has now gathered seven specialist brands for her shop. For many of these, she is the sole Irish stockist. She has brought bras from Australia, the UK and France, including a new organic label called Eco Boudoir lingerie, which will open its first flagship store in London later this year.
Cupcakes marks yet another plus for D6’s growing reputation as a fashion destination, joining shops such as Kelli, Anastasia, Bow Pearl and Deja Vu.
Cupcakes, 44-46 Ranelagh Village, Dublin 6
Lea Dam Jensen, the new head designer with Noa Noa, paid her first visit to Dublin recently to explain the changes she’s making to the range – more shapeliness, more youthfulness, better fitting trousers – while still retaining the casual bohemian, vintage look that marks this cosmopolitan Danish brand.
Her research takes her to India, Thailand and Europe, where flea-market finds are often recreated in the collections. For spring, there’s an embroidered jacket based on an old Hungarian original found in Budapest, dresses and tops in soft pastel colours made from yarn dyed with vegetables from a small village near Chiang Mai, and a reversible jacket in a light African-style ikat print.
Standout dresses include a coral maxi with mother of pearl detail, a shawl collared wrap number with full skirt in a subtle grey/blue indigo print, and a china blue silk kaftan-style dress with sequins. Prices start at €30 for tops, dresses are from €70-€150 and jackets €120. Noa Noa, Westbury Mall, Dublin 2
Shevlin Millinery, which was started by owner John Shevlin’s late father in 1960, has both a local and international following and is the only ladies’ and gents’ straw and felt hatmaker in Ireland.
Shevlin made the last hats worn by Aer Lingus staff when Ib Jorgensen designed the uniforms, and still makes to measure. The current collection includes handmade cloches and trilbys in camel or red felt with wired edges, as well as others made in two colours of wool, such as blue and grey, for a denim effect.
John Shevlin, who designs and makes every hat, is the only person in Ireland making Panamas, both in natural straw and in colours. Prices range from €35-€55, with Panamas costing €75 and leopard print cloches €125. Shevlin Millinery is also on Facebook.
Cow’s Lane Designer Studio, West Essex Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2; shevlin.ie
