If there’s one thing that distinguishes 21st century fashion, it is retrospection - but with refreshed ideas. At the Brown Thomas spring show 19 this morning, the line up of more than one hundred looks from 26 international designers was a mix of tailoring and what the French call flou – floaty, feminine looks with echoes of the 60s, 70s and 80s throughout.
The bold red and purple setting emphasised what BT’s womenswear director Shelly Corkery director described as a “versatile, vibrant and colourful season”. Two red dresses, polar opposites, summed it up – one a short red mini dress from Valentino, simple perfection, and the other a long ultra feminine tiered tulle affair with sweetheart neckline and feather appliqué from Dolce & Gabbana.
Suiting took many forms, mostly blazers which played a starring role - razor sharp numbers from Balenciaga, frilled at Miu Miu, deconstructed at Jill Sander and tightly figured in red from Victoria Beckham. McCartney showed blazers with open seams along with creamy laid back trouser suits and aviator style jumpsuits. The most alluring jackets of all were by Alexander McQueen their cuffs inset with flamboyant frothy lace and from Dior in cream worn with a cutaway leather cream skirt.
Florals and prints for summer weddings were in abundance alongside slinky long black gowns for red carpet events though Isabel Marant provided some daywear drama with a sparkling grey sequin top worn with high waisted jeans. Versace’s recycled prints made eye-catching dresses while for men Gucci’s denim jacket, black trousers and velour tracksuits had that offbeat sporty look emphasised by the season’s hottest trainers, some with jewellery embellishments, the most cultish being the chunky – and pricey -Triple Ss from Balenciaga - “like wearing moon boots” according to menswear director Paul O’ Connor.
Standout pieces in the show – and there were many – included a heart stopping China blue print dress from Dior, a pink and white floral affair with handkerchief points from the Australian Zimmerman sisters known for their sophistication and romanticism, Erdem’s equally romantic grey floral maxi and Richard Quinn’s dramatic leopard print tent dress. Notable also this season were the accessories – glittering earrings, neat bucket bags, feathered pumps, perspex sandals, strappy Mary Janes, painted leather slides, platform and cowboy boots. Dad and sock sneakers anchored many a flirty little dress in that modern mix of toughness and tenderness. In short, a lot of choice on all fronts.
