Christian Dior once said that the strangest fact about his profession and one incomprehensible to the uninitiated is that fashion is always decided out of season, "so we like to dream of summer in the middle of winter and vice versa". It's the same with shop buyers who will now be on trips abroad armed with their budgets and deciding what to sell – and what will sell – later in the year.
According to Juliet Ledwidge of JuJu boutique in Greystones, a successful buyer who has been in business for more than 10 years and has weathered the recession, “you have to be more conscious not just of the season, but the temperature and the weather – our seasons now have been turned on the head”. Due to the mild winter, customers only started buying coats this month, she says. And now, with temperatures dropping even further, summer stripes and shorts are arriving for the new season.
For her, fashion may be about trends and forecasting, “but if you buy only what is in fashion, it doesn’t work for most women. I tend to buy a lot of things that I love and that are worth having,” she says. Her customers go for versatile pieces that transcend seasons, investing in workwear, washable weekend wear like silks from designers like Dorothy Schumacher, parkas from Yves Salomon parkas and great jeans from Gold Sign – “classic pieces every season – what I call understated luxury”. Prices necessarily are high.
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Given the pace of fashion, she is now on buying trips six times a year, whereas previously it was only twice, because brands are producing more collections and working with customers in Asia and Australia, which means totally different seasonal demands at similar times of the year. Ledwidge is well known for her sharp eye and her taste for neutral shades like heather, khaki and dark green that reflect the landscape, rather than bright colours.
Along with international brands like Helmut Lang and Joseph, she also champions Irish designers Sian Jacobs and Lucy Downes’ Sphere One for their quality cashmeres, Melissa Curry’s jewellery and Kinsale Leather bags as well as silk scarves from Sarah Swann. A new find in the UK is the androgynous daywear of Folk Fashion from London, playful, easy-to-wear garments from a brand that started with menswear.
The shots here were taken by Ledwidge’s sister, the photographer Jenni Brown, in Belmont at the back of the SugarLoaf near Bray, a perfect place for a hike in a parka, jeans and a pair of Pedro Garcia boots all now on sale in Juju, Unit 3, La Touche Place, Greystones, Co Wicklow.
Last minute outerwear sale buys
Those with a nose for bargains know that often the best are to be found just at the end of the sales. As most finish now in late January, we trawled a few shops and high end sites to find some star designer buys some reduced by as much as 70 per cent.
Havana, Dublin: a black sheepskin gilet by Roisin Gartland now €500 (was €1255). Teal leather biker jacket by Rick Owens was €1625, now €650. A gold embossed jacket by Simone Rocha was €1695 now €680 and pony skin flat by Rocha that were €1165 now €465.
Zara, nationwide: Parka with painted back was €79.99 now €29.99; frayed edged tweed coat was €139, now €59.99. Check coat with gem collar was 139, now 59.00. Embroidered bomber jacket was €59.99 now €19.95. A long trench coat was €89.95 now €59.99. Short embroidered jacket with tassels was €49.99 now €19.95. Faux fur leopard print coat was €89.95 now €59.99.
Samui, Cork. Up to 70 per cent reductions. An MSGM multi coloured fur coat that was €1340 now €385. A No 21 knee length mesh and lace black star dress that was €720 now €200. Alexander Wang black jumpsuit was €500, now €140. A green, brown and black shoulder bag by Marni was €1500, now €720. Alexander Wang black leather ankle boots with silver clips were €675, now €337.50.
Seagreen, Monkstown and Ranelagh, Dublin: Up to 70 per cent off Victoria Beckham, Iro, Equipment, Paul & Joe. A pair of Stuart Weisman grandiose boots were €520 now €195. Black and white metallic tweed jacket by Iro was €559, now €223. Wide leg cropped distressed denims were €239 now €95.
Net-a-Porter.com Stella McCartney faux patent leather Chelsea boots were €770 now €308. Black and white gingham cotton trench coat by J Crew was €252, now €101. Blue wool felt coat by Miu Miu was €1390 now €695.
Envoy of Belfast: Navy lace detail dress by Pomander was €245 now €98. Fuschia A-line silk coat with bell sleeves by Dries Van Noten was €760 now €380. Lace up brogues by Dries Van Noten were €380 now €190. Leopard print boots also by Dries Van Noten were €545 now €272. High top Marni sneakers were €400, now €200. Comme des Garcons cocoon skirt was €640 now €320. A navy waterproof by Marni was €1160 now €580.
Farfetch.com Stella McCartney cheetah print jacquard dress was €995, now €398. Marni colour black jumper was €810, now €405. Black metallic buttoned pinafore by D & G was €1750 now €875. Cat print shirt by Stella McCartney was €595 now €238. Many items have 50% off like a Dolce & Gabbana black and white tweed tress €675 down from €1350.