Roksanda Ilincic is a London-based, Serbian designer who creates eye-catching statement pieces. With a fearless use of colour and pattern, her designs are instantly recognisable and unmistakeably modern. The Central St Martin’s graduate has been building her brand formore than a decade, with high-profile fans such as Kate Middleton, Michelle Obama, Samatha Cameron, Cate Blanchett and Kirsten Stewart.
Her most recent autumn/winter London show took place in a transformed gymnasium and as it came to a close, children’s cheers erupted. Ilincic had invited her child’s class to witness the event and they were sat high above the rest of the audience. To even recognise the existence of children, never mind have them present, is unusual in the world of fashion, but this holds true of Ilincic’s approach.
Ilincic says, “I design for a modern woman with a varied day. There are so many demands on women these days whether they are dropping the children at school, in the boardroom, or out socialising. I want to design pieces that are chic and easy to wear but will also make you stand out.”
When designing does she consider the whole outfit, from head-to-toe? “My collections encompass everything from dresses, separates, great staple trousers and suiting, leather, jewellery and bags plus childrenswear. I like to think there is something for every occasion.”
Her design process, she says, is affected by the quarterly collections: “It’s a really busy fashion calendar so it’s a whirlwind process. I usually start with choosing my colours and my fabrics, then sketching shapes, choosing the shapes and defining the mood; it’s a process that evolves all the time until the collection is finished.”
Her last collection was hyper-feminine, but also dark and moody. Velvets and silks flowed around ankles, collars were ruffled and chiffon was rouched. “I love bright colour and mixing unusual fabrics, for example with natural silks with manmade technical materials,” she says.
Ilincic is still influenced by architecture and design, having studied it in her native Belgrade. Last year she opened her first store in London. “I worked with architect David Adjaye to design the store at 9 Mount Street. I’ve known him for a long time and find his work very inspiring. I am constantly inspired by many different things around me. Artists I admire, architecture, modern women… life itself”
Unsurprisingly Ilincic wears her own designs: “I prefer midi skirts or culottes with flats for day as I find them so easy to wear. For evening I am spoiled for choices with so many dresses in my collections.”
These dresses hit the catwalk during the fashion week shows, but it’s more than just about the clothes she says: “When I send a look out on the catwalk it needs to be Roksanda from head to toe. It’s about a complete vision, about bringing your world to life.
“I like the contrast of ‘dressy’ outfits with hair that feels quite natural, with a little bit of texture.”
And the one beauty product you’ll always find in her handbag? “Red Lipstick.”
Roksanda Ilincic has partnered with Toni & Guy hair products to create a a limited editon collection, in stores now.
