‘Women like me because they know I am on their side,” fashion and costume designer Peter O’Brien says with a smile, admitting that he is “infinitely more thrilled” at seeing an ordinary woman wearing his navy wool crepe on the street than a celebrity. Well known for his forthright opinions, hatred of fake tan and too much flesh, he has just launched his fifth collection for Arnotts and it has all the hallmarks of his familiar sartorial style.
Colours are predictable: camel and navy with the added relish of tomato. He describes it as minimal and clean and says, with his usual modesty, “I do what I do and try and do it better every season”.
Everything this time has a more relaxed, roomier look such as the drop shouldered wool coat, one of five styles in the collection. “You cut it like a kimono and the fabric finds its own fall. I can’t bear fabric forced to do things it can’t do. Denim and lycra, for instance, should never have got into bed together,” he says. Another coat has what he describes as a “Babe Paley” neckline, a reference to the great American beauty.
His drawings, so light, flamboyant and assured, clearly show the line. Many of the sketches are of beautiful ideas (in matching coloured wool and silk) that often can’t be realised due to limitations on production. What he has learnt from working with Arnotts on a limited budget is that initially “I would have thought about dressmaking details, but we don’t have the production necessary to dye our wool and yarns like Cos, which has so many facilities.
“So instead of having a whole toolbox for the collection, you learn to cut your cloth to suit your means. I try to use the best quality fabric I can and the quality of the make is really excellent,” he says. Most production is in Portugal. (He had no limitations to worry about, however, on a recent private commission, the fairytale dress for model Sarah Morrissey for her wedding in June to Pat Jennings in Italy. “Did you see it?” he asks. “33 metres of silk chiffon . . !”)
For winter, apart from coats and a little New Look jacket in heavy wool Melton, there are navy cropped tops with wrap skirts, mannish jackets with wide leg trousers (a familiar O Brien silhouette) and knits with oversize cuffs. The dresses are spare and elegant, some in wool and velvet and others that look like two pieces.
The thrust of the collection is about layers and wrapping.“I have a feeling that very tight, very fitted shapes now look old-fashioned and harp back to 2008. I feel closer to a slightly easier look,” he says.
Along with three fine leather gloves, his silk scarves – in four styles – are bound to be collectors’ items. Colourful and captivating, they are printed with images of high fashion and theatrical drawings with one featuring a playful assemblage of accessories: shoes, bustiers, gloves, hats, ribbons and bows. The fifth Peter O’Brien for Arnotts collection will be available in-store and online at arnotts.ie from September 16th
