WineNew Zealand producers are capitalising on the success of their Goliath-bashing white, writes Joe Breen
New Zealand's attempt to take on the might of Old World wine brings to mind the story of David versus Goliath. A country of fewer than four million people, in the middle of nowhere, comes up with a distinctive take on Sauvignon Blanc that wins over palates around the world. And now David is determined to keep Goliath on the defensive. In 1989 Sauvignon Blanc accounted for only 8 per cent of New Zealand's nascent wine industry. Last year the varietal represented 73 per cent of the country's burgeoning wine exports. The bulk of it is grown in Marlborough, to the north of South Island, and this is where the government and the wine industry have begun a project to enable growers to "sustainably produce consistent styles" of Sauvignon Blanc.
This involves analysing vineyard selection, rootstock and clones, planting, harvesting, irrigation and other variables in the production of the grape. It also involves determining what combination of factors produces wines that are green and zingy, soft and fruity or a little of both.
The aim is not to make Sauvignon Blanc in one or another style but, by understanding the variables involved, to be able to make more interesting wines. This is especially important because the Kiwis understand that wine, like all other commodities, is subject to the vagaries of fashion and that the young, zingy, fresh-faced fruity Sauvignon that is the engine of the current boom may fall from favour in time. Ideally, they would like their other promising wines, notably Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, to sell more abroad, but by focusing on what makes their star so successful they are seeking to arm themselves with tools to adapt to any new consumer demand.
Martinborough, a small village near the bottom of North Island, is building a reputation for fine wine, particularly Pinot Noir, way out of proportion to its size. Although Central Otago, on South Island, is considered Pinot's most promising region, Martinborough's microclimate hosts a number of acclaimed wineries producing often brilliantly concentrated wine.
Roger Fraser, of the Murdoch James Estate winery, was in Ireland recently to showcase his excellent wines, and others in the Wines from Martinborough stable, including Ati Rangi, Craggy Range, Te Hera and Coney Wines. A quietly assured man, he likes to let his wines do his talking. It's a wise decision, as you'll discover if you try his "Fraser" Pinot Noir. See www.winesfrommartinborough.com