Domaine Mittnacht Frères Riesling 2005, Cullen Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2005 and Château Maris, Minervois 2004
Domaine Mittnacht Frères Riesling 2005, Alsace, 12.8%, €19.49This impressive estate, run by two cousins, has been biodynamic since 1999. Their yields are low, and the result is purity of fresh citrus fruit with an enticing rounded elegance in the mouth and a softly piquant finish. From 64 Wine, Sandycove, Co Dublin; and Fallon & Byrne, Dublin 2.
Cullen Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2005, Margaret River, 14.5%, €22.99Vanya Cullen is a biodynamic icon in Australia, and this classy, aromatic and arresting blend is a powerful riposte to those who say the Aussies can't do Sauvignon Blanc. The Semillion influence and the fermenting of just over a quarter of this wine in barrel gives it a smoky, rounded complexity, to balance the citrus-fruit attack. From 64 Wine, Sandycove, Co Dublin; Listons, Dublin 2; Uncorked, Dublin 14; Hole in the Wall, Dublin 7; and Enowine, Dublin 1.
Château Maris, Minervois 2004, 14.5%, €12.99Bertie Eden, grandnephew of the former British prime minister Anthony Eden, runs this excellent property in southern France on biodynamic principles. His wines deliver high quality at relatively low cost, and this spicy, perfumed little number, full of peppery dark fruit, carries on this noble tradition with distinction. From Celtic Whiskey Shop, Dublin 2; McHugh's, Kilbarrack and Howth Road, Dublin 5; On the Grapevine, Dalkey, Co Dublin; McCabe's, Blackrock, Co Dublin, and Foxrock, Dublin 18; and Red Island Wines, Skerries, Co Dublin.