Enrico Fantasia swapped the Venice Opera House for Sheridan Cheesemongers, writes Mary Dowey in a news round-up.
BOOST FOR CHEESE AND WINE
Sheridan Cheesemongers has branched into wine in a serious way, building a fascinating portfolio of 80 bottlings through the efforts of their colourful Italian wine buyer. Enrico Fantasia - what a great name - abandoned his career as French horn player with the orchestra of the Venice opera house, La Fenice, a few years ago. "I decided I didn't like musicians," he explains. "Too many big egos."
He knew he liked wine and was used to visiting producers since his best friend owned a wine bar outside Venice. Enrico started working in a city wine bar and within two weeks was running it. Jump forward through a few years of wine-tasting, travel, friendship with cheesemonger Seamus Sheridan and discussions about a joint wine venture. Enrico moved to Galway in 2003. "It's not so different from Venice," he muses. "They are both small cities, so it's easy to get to know people. And there's a lot of water in both places - except that in Venice we know where the water is."
His wine list, sourced almost exclusively from small producers, is mainly Italian, with a sprinkling from Spain and France. There are some impressive and unusual whites, including Tové 2003, a wonderfully vibrant blend of Tocai, Friulano and Verduzzo from Friuli (15.95). Also from Friuli is one of the red stars, Viburnum 2001 - a silky blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Carmenère from young producers Vinai da Duline (€20.50). There are plenty of others.
Sheridans Cheesemongers, 11 South Anne St, Dublin 2, 01-6793143; 7 Pembroke Lane, Ballsbridge, 01-6608231; 14-15 Churchyard St, Galway, 091-564829 (cheese) and 091-564832 (wine).
KIWI GEMS
Returning from New Zealand this spring, I suddenly realised how much the bigger companies and the biggest region, Marlborough, dominate the Kiwi slice of the Irish market. Not for long, perhaps. Joyce Austin, a Dubliner who emigrated to New Zealand 10 years ago and recently swapped the corporate life for wine, is making it easy for Irish retailers to offer exciting wines from small estates elsewhere.
Set up purely for the Irish market, her Auckland-based company, New Zealand Boutique Wines, ships 26 wines from six producers in four regions - Hawkes Bay and Martinborough in the North Island and Nelson and Waipara in the South Island. They aren't all Sauvignon Blanc, either. Superb examples of Riesling and Pinot Noir stand out, backed up by other varieties.
"Interestingly, the Rieslings are the really big sellers," says Jimmy Redmond in Ranelagh, one of her main outlets. Other stockists include McCabes; the Celtic Whiskey Shop; Martha's Vineyard (all Dublin); Cheers-Gibneys, Malahide; Wicklow Wine Company; Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Vineyard, Galway; O'Donovans and Karwig Wines, Cork. E-mail: joyceaustin@extra.co.nz
BEST OF AUSTRALIA
Ever since Australia seized the lion's share of the market in both Ireland and the UK, there has been a barrage of negative comment. Retailers are awash with big, bland brands produced in industrial quantities - that's pretty much how the argument goes. True enough, but let's not forget that the Aussies also produce brilliantly individualistic wines at a wide range of prices. The expertwine.com 100 Best of Australia 2004, selected by English wine writer Matthew Jukes, makes a great shopping list. View it on his website www.expertwine.com. You can also sign up for a month's free trial of the online newsletter which offers subscribers heaps of insider info.
GALLOPING AHEAD IN GALWAY
If you're heading to Galway for the races or general diversion, McCambridge's may be the place to replenish dwindling wine stocks. Eoin McCambridge and Óg Cunningham have sourced some terrific wines at keen prices, particularly from the Rhône and the Languedoc. Look out for the beautifully balanced Domaine des Sénéchaux Châteauneuf du Pape 2001 23.50 - much less than the figures noted in sightings around Dublin); meaty Domaine des Remizières Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Particulière 2001 (14.75) and - best bargain of all - rich, fleshy Chateau Hélène Corbières Cuvée Ulysse 1999 (10.09). Eoin is keen to place small quantities of some of his wines with other retailers. Any takers?
McCambridges is at 38-39 Shop Street, Galway. Telephone 091-562259 and e-mail retail@mccambridges.com
POURING FORTH
Barossa duo Colin and Ben Glaetzer from Australia's Barossa Valley introduced a stirring portfolio of wines at a Searsons dinner in Shanahans recently. With vine roots stretching back to 1888, the Glaetzers are a highly oenological bunch with no fewer than eight winemakers currently in the family. Colin is revered for creating many outstanding wines in his 30-year career, including the famous E&E Black Pepper Shiraz. His son Ben, aged 27, is proud to have made the first table wine out of Armenia for Pernod-Ricard.
Now working together, they conjure some remarkable expressions of Shiraz. Look out for the sumptuous but finely tuned Amon-Ra 2002 (about 45) and Colin Glaetzer's restrained, Rhoneish Bishop 1999 (about 32) - deliberately held back a couple of years, hallelujah, to reach the right point for delectation. If these prices seem scary, the Glaetzers make everyday wines too - see our white Bottle of the Week below.
VICTORIAN DYNASTY
Just three weeks after the death of John Charles Brown, one of the great oldtimers in Australian wine, his son Ross was in Dublin beating the drum of a 115-year-old family business and honouring the memory of a much-loved patriarch. "My father was enormously innovative," he said. "He had a remarkable ability to engage with the next generation and never said no to a good idea." Over a thousand people attended John Charles's funeral.
Part of the legacy he left Brown Brothers at Milawa in Victoria is an extraordinary pot pourri of grapes - not just typically Australian varieties like Riesling, Cabernet, Grenache and Shiraz but also Tarrango, Pinot Grigio, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo and Barbera (this last producing a terrifically juicy, appetising 2001 - well worth trying at around 12.99). Merlot comes up trumps too - see Bottles of the Week. "When most producers in Australia have stopped planting, we've just bought more land," said a buoyant Ross Brown. "Dad always used to say: when everybody's in cattle, get into sheep." mdowey@irish-times.ie
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Stickleback White, South Australia, Heartland Wines 2003. "The unerring nerve, verve and swerve of this racy, juicy white makes it our best find in ages," trumpets importer Charles Searson. The fresh, fruity blend of Semillon, Chardonnay and Verdelho from Ben Glaetzer really is a deliciously refreshing summer white. From Vintry, Rathgar; Searsons, Monkstown; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Red Island, Skerries; Grape Escape, Lucan; Galway Wine Co, Salthill; Cabots, Westport; Patrick Stewart, Sligo and many Next Door off-licences nationwide, about €11.
Brown Brothers Merlot, Victoria 2001. Australia is too darned hot to produce much worthwhile Merlot, but Brown Brothers has planted in the right place and refined their techniques over 20 years. The result? An elegant, savoury wine with just enough vegetal and gamey overtones to make it interesting. A few years of maturity help. A great buy at the price. From Superquinn; many SuperValus/Centras; Corkscrew, Chatham St; Hogans, Rathfarnham; Red Island, Skerries; Galvins, Cork and many Next Door off-licences countrywide, usually about €13.99.