WINE:Sauvignon and Chenin Blanc are the keys to South Africa's progress as a wine producer, writes John Wilson
A NUMBER of British journalists have been putting the boot into South African wines in recent months, arguing that they are jammy, rubbery and unbalanced. I can see where they are coming from; there is no shortage of over-extracted, over-oaked wines, sometimes with the added joy of very hard, greenish tannins, too. These may go down well with a hearty braai, but they can be very difficult to drink otherwise.
However, South Africa does make plenty of excellent reds. Treated with a bit of care, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot can do very well, and Syrah shows huge potential. The local speciality, Pinotage, is unlikely ever to gain mass appeal, but one or two producers still make wonderful wines from this variety.
I know South African wines are very popular in Ireland, particularly with those who holiday regularly around Cape Town, close to the historic vineyards of South Africa.
I would argue that South Africa does have two potentially world-beating wines, but both of them are white. For some reason, South Africa has always had huge plantings of Chenin Blanc. In the past, over a third of all grapes planted were of this variety. It is still the most widely-planted variety, used to make everything from dry wines to sweet, sparkling and fortified.
Until recently, the dry whites varied in quality from so-so to undrinkable. But the last decade has seen a few of the brighter producers making a real effort, with very encouraging results. Some have opted for the Burgundian style, fermenting and ageing their wines in new oak, with lees stirring and all the other modern fancy methods.
These are big, powerful wines that definitely need food to accompany them. I prefer the lighter, more elegant style, which emphasise the pure melon and greengage fruits of Chenin, sometimes with an intriguing touch of honey.
The other great white hope is Sauvignon. A dozen or so producers in South Africa are now making world-class examples of this wine. The best are a thrilling combination of Old World crisp acidity, and exuberant New World fruit.
It is not surprising that the cooler regions of Elgin, Hermanus and Darling make some of the finest Sauvignon. They are joined by Robertson, nominally a hot region, which manages, through a combination of limestone soils and cooling breezes, to make some of South Africa's best.
If South Africa wishes to create a new identity, a USP that is recognised the world over, it may very well come from these two grape varieties. Sauvignon is the height of fashion, the drink on everybody's lips. Chenin Blanc is capable of making great wines, yet the only other place world-wide that you will find it in any quantity is back in the Loire Valley in France. Perhaps this offers a unique opportunity to build a reputation.
jwilson@irish-times.ie
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Teddy Hall Chenin Blanc 2006, Stellenbosch, 14%, €10-€12. An un-oaked Chenin Blanc, bursting with impeccably clean fresh tropical fruits - melons and kiwis to the fore. Relatively full-bodied, but never over the top, this is very nicely-crafted wine to enjoy with fish and white meats. Stockists: Jus de Vine, Portmarknock; Anderson's Food Hall, Glasnevin; Kelly's Wine Vault, Clontarf; Gibney's, Malahide; Morton's of Galway; Mitchell & Son Wine Merchants; McPhail's, Drogheda.
Bellingham The Maverick Chenin Blanc 2005, Coastal Region, 14.5%, €16.99. A barrel-fermented wine that packs a huge amount of flavour into one glass. Rich, powerful grilled nuts, butter and honey, with masses of rich, ripe figs and peaches.
Not a wine for the faint-hearted; try it with barbequed fish or chicken dishes. Stockists: The Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin 2; Clada Wines, Galway; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Slainte, Stillorgan; Londis, Malahide; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Wicklow Arms, Delgany; Devany's, Dundrum.
Iona Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Elgin, 13%, €16. One of my favourite Sauvignons, that takes inspiration from Sancerre as much as Marlborough. From some of the coolest vineyards in South Africa, this combines superb, vivid green fruits with a streak of mouth-watering tangy acidity. Drink on its own, or with seafood. Stockists: Ardkeen Food Store, Waterford; Dolan's, Limerick; Next Door Nationwide; Gibney's, Malahide; Red Island Wine, Skerries; On The Grapevine, Booterstown and Dalkey; Market 57, Westport; McHugh's, Malahide Road; The Cheese Pantry, Drumcondra; The Hole in The Wall, Dublin 7; Mac's, Limerick; Uncorked, Dublin 14; Cashel Wine Cellar, Cashel.
Neil Ellis Groenekloof Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Western Cape, 13.5%, €16. One of the top winemakers in South Africa, Ellis can always be relied upon to make a cracking Sauvignon. The Groenekloof has intense ripe gooseberries and green fruits with a lovely citrus edge. Lovers of Marlborough Sauvignon should certainly seek this out. Stockists: Widely available, including Gibney's, Malahide; Higgins, Clonskeagh; Nolan's, Clontarf; O'Brien's Fine Wines; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Wine Cellar, Maynooth; Halpin's Fine Wines, Wicklow; Daly's, Boyle; Fahy's, Ballina; Harvest off-Licence, Galway.