San Francisco bars are infusing their drinks with an ever more complex blend of herbs and spices, writes Kathryn Matthews. Try one of these . . .
Thai basil, persimmon and paprika are just a few of the palate-teasing ingredients appearing in artisanal cocktails at restaurants throughout the culinary trend-setting city of San Francisco. Taking their cues from the kitchen, mixologists in the city are increasingly reaching for fresh-squeezed juices, just-ground spices and muddled herbs instead of sugary syrups and pre-packaged mixes. With bartenders searching out organic ingredients, visiting farmers' markets and sourcing locally produced spirits, SF has become a cocktail capital.
Coco500 is a Mediterranean hot spot in the trendy South of Market area (SoMa), where hand-crafted cocktails invite lingering at the teak-and-blue Italian glass-tiled bar. "We get our inspiration from the kitchen and focus on creating food-friendly cocktails," says Coco's Aaron Smith. The walrus and the carpenter, a refreshing aperitif of potato vodka, cucumber, lemon slices and parsley, was designed for oysters. And the blood-orange old-fashioned is recommended with braised beef cheeks. Worth trying on for size: the little red dress (fresh orange juice, Meyer lemon and organic vodka served in a champagne flute and topped with a sparkling rosé wine), or Persephone's slip (fresh pomegranate juice and gin, drizzled with lemon oil and zest).
Speciality cocktails rock the kasbah at a modern Moroccan restaurant in the Richmond district. Labour-intensive libations feature farmers' market produce, herbs, North African flavourings and premium spirits. Aziza's signature cocktails, including kiwi (with muddled fresh grapefruit and kiwi, tequila, Cointreau and fleur de sel) and lavender (lavender-steeped orange- blossom honey, lemon and vodka), are sought out by cocktail connoisseurs, says Farnoush Deylamian, who develops and oversees the drinks menu. Other highlights? Try the tarragon caipirinha (muddled cardamom pods, lime, cachaca and tarragon leaves) or the celery (Madagascan vanilla, black peppercorns, vodka and celery).
"The under-50 crowd seems receptive to having fruit, savoury herbs or hot peppers in a cocktail," says Cameron West of a new restaurant in the Mission district. Depending on the month, yellow watermelon or Sungold tomatoes can wind up in your drink. The result? An amazingly "balanced cocktail that is not super-sweet," West says. Try the harmony, a colourful blend of pear- and green-tea-infused gin, lemon juice, Lillet Blanc and chartreuse liqueur. Or the eye-catching fickle fox, featuring huckleberries, gin and lemon juice.
Like the food, classic "down home" cocktails get an updated, artisanal twist at Town Hall, a hip New Orleans-inspired restaurant in SoMa. Bitters, liqueurs, house-made syrups and garnishes (all made by the pastry chef) are star ingredients. Signature hits? According to bartender Christa Manalo, gender usually predicts preference. Men favour darker, spirits-based cocktails, such as the sazerac (aged Kentucky rye whiskey, bitters and Herbsaint, a New Orleans-produced anise-flavoured liqueur) or the big easy (gin, Cointreau, lemon juice and bitters). Women tend towards the fetching Dorothy Parker, with its dollop of Chambord and float of sparkling wine, or the town cooler, a playful take on a mojito, with mint-ginger syrup and ginger beer.
From guava to ground cashews, "we're always creating something new or reinventing an old cocktail", says Zack Morlock of Frisson, a trendy two-year-old Financial District restaurant and lounge. Concentrated flavourings, such as lemon-grass- infused essential oil, tea-infused spirits and lesser-known bitters, such as Cynar (an artichoke-flavoured Italian liqueur), characterise these speciality cocktails. Signature drinks such as the mojito martini (rum, lime and spearmint), en fuego (pomegranate tequila, Cointreau, lemon, prickly-pear purée and essence of spearmint) and le long frisson (a peach riff on the cosmopolitan) are the order of the day.
If you want to check out San Francisco's legendary bars and restaurants, Aer Lingus will fly direct to the city four times a week from October 28th