Does the old adage of not eating shellfish in months that have no ‘r’ still hold true? It may seem outmoded, what with all the mussel and oyster farms surrounding our fair isle. Yet some aspect of this old saying remains relevant.

The saying basically says that you can eat shellfish any month – except for May, June, July and August. In other words, it was not advisable to consume shellfish during the summer. Now, those fond of clam chowder or a bowl of mussels overlooking Killary harbour at the height of summer may shudder. Is this maxim nonsense, designed to deny us the somatic joy of shellfish? Perhaps. But there are actually two good reasons why people are advised not to eat shellfish in the summer.

The first is to protect the breeding season of these bivalves (shellfish with two shells: mussels, clams, scallops, etc). The second is due to red tides during the summer, which make the shellfish harmful to eat. (Red tides are caused by an abundance of a particular type of plankton, which causes the water to turn a brownish red.)

To be sure, always talk to your fishmonger when purchasing shellfish – whatever the time of the year. January is a great time to enjoy shellfish. There is an abundance of oysters, clams, mussels and cockles, as well as other rarer finds, such as whelks and winkles.

We all know that the best way to cook shellfish is to barely cook it at all. In the case of the oyster, raw is best. Its salty, umami quality is best tasted over ice. And, strangely, buttermilk pairs beautifully with oyster. Shuck your oyster and strain its juices into a bowl. Mix a little buttermilk and extra virgin rapeseed oil and pour back over the oyster.

For additional luxury, add a little goatsbridge trout roe and some sea lettuce. I can think of no better way to stave off the January blues.