It's salmon en papillote, darling of the 1990s dinner party. The contents for each plate are steamed in a little paper parcel, ensuring that the fish is perfectly cooked in its own juices and doesn't dry out. Traditionally the tight parcel is made from paper, but I usually use foil. Simply fold the foil in half, fill, then crimp the edges as you would a Cornish pasty.
This is such a simple, and clean, way to cook fish. No flour, batter or greasy oil. Just fill your foil parcels and bake. A splash of vermouth or white wine along with aromatic herbs of your choice (such as dill or tarragon, depending on the fish). Vegetables can also be added; just make sure you cut them accordingly so that they cook in the same time as the fish.
This method of cooking suits most types of fish and is also great with vegetables or chicken. Simply flatten the chicken breasts so that they cook evenly. This is a really healthy way to cook; it requires little or no fat, as the food is cooked in the aromatic steam. To create the perfect recipe en papillote you must keep it simple and choose your ingredients carefully. Stick to flavours and combinations that you know will work. Everything is cooked all at once, so there's no escaping certain ingredients. Use dominant tastes such as ginger and chilli with a light touch.
Asian flavours work wonderfully well here. A splash of soy sauce, slivers of ginger and thinly sliced leeks or a handful of baby spinach leaves. Traditionally a large banana or cassava leaf would be used in place of the foil in Vietnamese or Indonesian recipes.
For this recipe I’ve chosen more Mediterranean flavours. The tomatoes burst in the high heat and simmer along with the sweet basil, creating the perfect pasta sauce. A few salty black olives or a handful of capers are great with this. Or you could use thinly sliced fennel in place of the spring onions.
I recently ate a beautifully light cod and tomato salad with fennel and pink grapefruit at Brioche in Ranelagh. It’s a gorgeous neighbourhood restaurant where the menu is focused on the seasons and on amazing, creative dishes with clean flavours. Chef Gavin McDonagh and his team produce incredibly intricate dishes from their minute open kitchen, where attention to detail is paramount. Tiny little threads of micro coriander rested lightly on my carrot starter. I felt like I should take photographs of everything; it was almost too pretty to eat.
Yotam Ottolenghi also mixes aniseed flavours with seafood and tomatoes for his prawns with arak and black olives. It’s a really special recipe from his first cookbook.
This is the perfect prepare-ahead supper. Simply assemble the parcels and place in the fridge until ready to cook. Dinner can be on the table within 15 minutes. I sometimes make speedy potato chips by slicing new, unpeeled potatoes into thin discs, then drying well with a tea towels. Toss in a little olive oil and sea salt, then roast in a tray.
By the time the fish is cooked, the potato chips will be crunchy and golden.
SALMON AND TOMATO PARCELS: SERVES 4
The five ingredients
- 4 salmon fillets
- 16 cherry tomatoes, halved
- 15g basil leaves
- 2 spring onions
- Fresh tagliatelle
From the pantry
- Olive oil
- Sea salt
- Black pepper
Method
Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Prepare four A5-size sheets of foil by rubbing olive oil on one half. Lay a salmon fillet on each and divide the sliced spring onion and tomatoes among them. Top with three to four basil leaves. Season with salt and pepper. Fold the foil over and crimp the edges tightly to seal the parcel. Place on a tray and cook for 10-12 minutes, depending on thickness.
Meanwhile cook the pasta in plenty of boiling salted water until just al dente (about three minutes). Drain and set aside.
Leave the parcels to rest for a minute before opening carefully. Divide the pasta between four bowls, top with a salmon darne and spoon over the parcel contents. Garnish with a few freshly shredded basil leaves and serve immediately.
- Every Thursday we'll tweet the five ingredients from @lillyhiggins and @irishtimeslife so you can have them ready for Friday. Email givemefive@irishtimes.com with your suggestions for recipes
